The journey south from Jaffna to Dambulla

Our visit to the Nallur Temple was all too brief but I was very aware that we needed to return to Kandy for medical reasons so we hit the road south as I wondered how is it that I frequently leave places wanting to return for a more leisurely visit to explore further. We took the same route as we had on the trip up, the A9, - it's the only one anyway - resisting thoughts of deviating to revisit places off the main road that we had known well. Unlike our journey up, we now travelled in daylight and it became obvious that had we tried to leave the main road we would probably have met safety issues on roads that were now dirt tracks, possibly still mined. The map below indicates the places we previously regarded as being in our neighbourhood, from Jaffna to Puliyankulam.

Road to and from Dambulla - Jaffna

Leaving the Kallur Kovil, we drove through streets and lanes that seemed totally untouched by the thirty years of war with lovely houses, standing behind well maintained walls, in manicured lawns and gardens. As we travelled south, this contrasted with the abandoned war destroyed houses and structures left us feeling quite uncomfortable.

Gracious living in Jaffna

The women in the Jaffna area now seem to be very different to those I know in other areas, in terms of their independence, due possibly to the need to take care of themselves or suffer the consequences. I noticed many riding not only bikes but also motorbikes and even working in one of the restaurants we visited - something not at all common in the south.

As we drove towards Elephant Pass, through Chavakacheri and Meesalai we could see the ravages of war with blown up houses, palm trees missing their tops, standing like useless power poles in the dusty earth.

remains of a house

Previously the Meesalai Railway Station

The most sobering sight of all was that of a couple of Army women, minus any useful protective  clothing or equipment - a few sandbags only were visible - kneeling in the hot dusty dirt locating or detonating land mines. As we paused  to take a quick photo, [ we were immediately sent on our way ] I hoped that they had done their work well under the road we were travelling on!

de mining the side of the road near Meesalai

As we neared Elephant Pass our hearts began to race, even though we knew from our way up in the dark that there was now no bridge, no lagoon, no Rest House. Some things you know with your brain but the heart finds it difficult to accept. Elephant Pass was where we sometimes relaxed in the evening, timing our arrival so that we were sitting on the veranda with a cool drink as the train from Colombo crossed the bridge, its lights reflected in the lagoon below. I especially enjoyed those nights as I was somewhat isolated, living in company quarters with very few women around me.

Monument at Elephant Pass

There were at least four Army personel guarding the monument and I was asked to stop taking photos. It is only recently that foreign people have been allowed into this area so maybe the authorities are sensitive to foreign interpretation of what they see, I don't know, but monuments are usually there to commemorate something important for a nation and as such are much photographed.

Elephant Pass monument

I thought that the idea of the country being supported by hands was interesting.

Bronze Plaque at Elephant Pass

I was interested to see the woman carrying a child seemingly wading through mud in the foreground of this plaque. As a woman and a mother I can empathise with the plight of women caught up in any war anywhere as they not only lose sons, husbands, brothers, have to survive alone in an environment where human values and beliefs have broken down.

One of the plaques art Elephant Pass

Elephant Pass has always been an important spot because it is/was the narrowest point between the Jaffna Peninsular and the mainland. Both the Portuguese and the Dutch maintained a defence base there in the 1770s, as did the British. The British established networks of Rest Houses all over the country [ the forerunners of today's guesthouses] for their refreshment and accommodation needs. I well remember my first stay at a Rest House where we were served  four course meals on fine china with silver service and white gloved servers.

The name, Elephant Pass, apparently came about because the Dutch had wild elephants rounded up and herded into the shallow waters of the lagoon from where they were captured and sold in the yearly sales with buyers from places like Bengal then exporting them.

Formerly the lagoon at Elephant Pass

When we lived there the lagoon was one huge salt pan, complete with a salt processing factory. Of course the salt works are now on the list of "gone". As I stood at the edge I thought about how destruction of the lagoon would be affecting the weather and animal life of a very wide area.

Sea Side view at Elephant Pass

Elephant Pass was, of course, a key point during the thirty year war between the Sri Lankan Army and the Tamil Tigers with three wars being fought there and no doubt many more skirmishes. During the first war there in 1991 the Sri Lankan Army was saved from defeat by a Lance Corporal named Gamini Kularathna. He was a village boy, meaning without advantages enjoyed educationally and otherwise by his city raised and prestigious leaders, however he proved himself  a hero with his quick analysis of the severity of the situation and selfless bravery in the face of oncoming disaster. Armed only with a few hand grenades he ran at this approaching Tiger "tank" detonating his weapons in time to stop it, blowing up those inside and, of course himself, as well. I hope that his poor family has been well taken care of, unlike the board that commemorates his bravery.

Bulldozer Tank, near Elephant Pass

The Tigers were well known for their ability to improvise and their tank started out as a bulldozer.

To finish the story about the three wars, the Tigers gained control of Elephant Pass in 2000 during the second war but lost it during the third war in January 2009. I remember watching this on the news in Colombo at that time.

A little further south we came to Paranthan where the Chemical factory was formerly on the northern outskirts.

Paranthan Chemicals

Without the sign we would have been hard pressed to be sure that we were in the correct place, except for the remains of the huge cooling tower lying in the centre of the picture. It wasn't possible to go closer as this is now an army base.

Paranthan Chemicals today, cooling tower in the centre.

I guess few cars stop on the road side here as this little boy's head popped up over the Hindu Temple wall to see why we were there. He seemed bemused when we got out of the car and went over to take a look.

The Sri Lankan government has been able to obtain aid to rebuild the A9 highway from Dambulla to Jaffna, especially from the Indian government and a fine two lane road now replaces the windy narrow one of the past. Very few trees have survived the war and it was amusing to see a couple that remain, now right in the road.

Road through Kilinochchi

We were travelling through at the end of the dry season. I well remember what these dirt roads were like during the wet when getting around is not so good. In this area there were a few mud/coconut roof houses but a little further south we saw quite a number of very small box-like houses built by the Indian government which would like to see refugees return home from there. It didn't seem that many had done so, as almost all the houses looked uninhabited.

Near Kilinochchi

Fresh air home for rent.

House, Kilinochchi area

After a lunch break near Iranamadhu turn off we hurried south, fortunately experiencing fewer delays than on our northward journey, eventually arriving at the Lakeside Adventist hospital in Kandy where Sam received some additional medical attention, averting complications.

Now that some time has elapsed since our visit, we are happy that we went despite the uncomfortable feelings, even emotional pain, that we experienced.

Nallur Kandaswarmy Temple

After our visit to the Jaffna Fort we drove around the city looking for another place to stay for our second night. This turned out to be quite a problem as every guesthouse and hotel we looked at demanded crazy room only prices - Rs5000 and upwards for varying standards from passable to horrible. Finally we came to one such place, Serendip Inn, and I, an obvious foreigner, was kept out of sight while my companions went inside to enquire about availability and to inspect the rooms - we needed two. All their rooms were available, checked for  cleanliness,  deemed reasonable and two selected for Rs2500 each. Bags were carried in, the owner was phoned by the young manager to get permission to give us towels and a second bed sheet. I was then allowed by my family to put in an appearance. Suddenly the price was Rs5000 each room, pay now. This made my family so mad that the bags were soon out, the registration form torn up and we were back on the road. As one with a family interest in a guest house (same rates no matter where you come from!) I cannot understand the logic of being happy with nil - negligible occupancy rates - the outcome for many places that we checked out late afternoons and evenings - when, if the rates were stable and reasonable, a steady income and good reputation could be assured. This nation wide avarice in tourism sectors and the often heard mantra that if you are from overseas then you should pay more for everything  is really at odds with the generosity and friendliness of the rest of the population.

In a way, this experience was all for the best as I realised that Sam's asthma wasn't getting any better and that he was not really well enough for a lot of sightseeing.  I suggested that we visit the Nallur Kovil before heading back to Kandy where we could obtain additional medical assistance if needed and, with notable relief, this was agreed.

Finding the Nallur Kandaswarmy Temple proved to be a bit of a challenge because our Southern Tamil driver was literally given the run around by the local Tamils who surely must have known exactly where this important and famous landmark was. After four massive misdirections - kilometres away in the opposite direction - we finally got the location from a Sinhalese army guy. As an aside, from Omanthi north, the Armed forces were highly visible everywhere to ensure the safety of the people, I was told. I'm unused to seeing lots of soldiers with guns at the ready so this had the opposite effect on me. This time, however, we were indeed assisted very well.

Hindu Temple, Jaffna

Confident of finding the Nallur Kovil at last, we came to this temple in an area near the Kandaswarmy Temple.  I have not been able to identify it so if anyone reading this can do so, please do comment. We had driven past it so I had to walk back while my companions waited for me to take a brief look. Oh, to have more time to explore!

Hindu Temple, Jaffna

Hindu Temple, Jaffna

Isn't it stunning? I ventured in the gate to see if anyone was around but the place was deserted in the midday sun so it was back to the waiting van, my curiosity unsatisfied.

Round the corner we went, following the distinctive red and white walls, and came to the Nallur Kandaswarmy Temple. It was set back quite a distance from the road, standing back behind an ocean of light sand which was visibly radiating heat. Taking in the line of shoes at the outer fence, I complied and danced crazily across the burning sand until I found myself on the cool tiles of the entrance hall. I stood there for some time, allowing my heart and mind to become still and cool, taking in the strong colours and patterns around me.

Nallur Kandaswarmy, Hindu Temple entrance

 There were few people around, which I appreciated for I am not comfortable in crowds, so I was able truly relax before I ventured inside. I found myself in a wide, open space in the Great Hall with the shrine in front of me and courtyard to my left.

Nallur Kovil

At first I was somewhat amused that my two companions who had immediately entered the temple on arrival were both worshiping here together. One was a devout Buddhist and the other an equally devout Catholic! This was far away from my childhood Christian experience where one couldn't even enter another Christian church of a different denomination - not even to attend a family wedding! As I walked slowly around the inner temple courtyard, however,  I, too, was affected by the atmosphere and the idea of that strangeness wafted away in the cool breeze that accompanied me.

Nallur Kovil

My knowledge of Hinduism is almost less than basic but I did know that individual temples have different deities who have their own symbols. The deity of this Temple is Lord Muruga, the God of the Tamils and also known elsewhere as Kartikya, Skanda and Subrahmanya. While walking around the inner courtyard looking at the statues and wall paintings I noticed that there were several representations of peacocks and have now learned that the peacock is the emblem associated with Muruga, as is the vel or spear that symbolises his divinity.

Nallur Kovil

The first Nallur temple was built around 949 AD but was destroyed by invaders and rebuilt again after each invasion and destruction. Of course it was not the sturdy, colourful and statue filled structure it is today. Eventually a more substantial one was built of bricks and stones but this was destroyed by the Portuguese who replaced it with a Christian church. When the Dutch took over from the Portuguese, they were more relaxed and gave permission for a new temple to be constructed. Even so, the one built here in 1749 AD was much smaller, minus the clock tower, courtyard and ornate work. These were added gradually over time until 1964 when the Great Hall was built, statues added and wall paintings renovated, making it the beautiful place it is today.

I could have stayed much longer in this beautiful temple however my companions had long made their exit and I was aware that Sam was waiting under a shade tree, feeling too ill to come across the hot sea of sand and join me inside.

 I left slowly, feeling much calmer and in tune with the world around me than I had felt on my arrival.

Jaffna Fort

After breakfast we continued on our tour of Jaffna with our first stop at the Fort.  In years long past, I had spent several afternoons exploring this area while the others were watching cricket, a game I did not understand at that time, so I was looking forward to this visit. 

Jaffna town seemed mostly very familiar so I was expecting the Fort to be familiar too. Local people had told me that it had been the scene of a siege during the Thirty Year Tamil War and that it was now repaired. Not so. I learned that the Tigers had actually held it for far longer, until 1995, with the Sri Lankan Army regaining possession after a daring Air Force raid to end a seven week siege, bringing food and medical supplies to the troops as well as removing the wounded.  The government, with assistance from the Netherlands, is pouring money into the repairs which are said to be sixty percent completed. A lot of work certainly has been done, however, I found the atmosphere  eerily quiet and abandoned, very much a scene of destruction.

Nagadipa or Naga diva was the ancient name for the Jaffna peninsular and is sometimes used today. Nagadipa was an important sea port and, being so very close to India, was an entry for the South Indian Kings who regularly invaded the country. The Indians weren't the only invaders, of course, and it was the conquering Portuguese who first built the Fort in 1618. They constructed it as a square type shape with the southern wall on the shallow water of the lagoon.

Along came the Dutch looking to protect and expand their trade in this strategic part of the Indian Ocean. In 1658 they chased  the Portuguese out, took over the Fort and expanded it making a five sided structure with their church a feature.

Jaffna Fort

The Dutch finished their renovation in 1680, as marked on the Entrance Arch.

Entrance to the Inner Pentagon, Jaffna Fort

Graffiti or legitimate records? Jaffna Fort

I noticed this writing on the wall of the Entrance Arch but there were no clues as to what it was about in the information area.

Jaffna Fort

The Dutch ruled very severely. . .

Gallows right on top so emphasise control

 . . .  letting all around know who was in control.

Surprisingly, they handed it over to the British without even putting up a fight in 1795. The British held it until 1948.

Inside the Jaffna Fort

Unlike other Forts in Sri Lanka and other parts of Asia, the Jaffna Fort  always had a garrison and administrative function rather than a fortified walled city.

Jaffna Fort

The British maintained a residence there, Queens House, for visiting authorities and this was continued after Independence from Britain with various Sri Lankan Prime Ministers and Governors staying there.

Embedded coral showing in the renovations

There are reports that during the Thirty Year War, the Fort has seen thousands of acts of violence and this seems to be verified by the many human remains being found during the renovation process. I am glad I was unaware of this information at the time of my visit and, had I known, I probably would not have gone there. Several other interesting finds have been made including pottery and artifacts that date BC, I was told.

Now that the war is over, the Sri Lankan government has plans for increased tourism, with Jaffna and its Fort being some of the star attractions. For me, I prefer to remember it as it was almost half a century ago.