Nourlangie Rock and Anbangbang, Kakadu National Park

Approach to Nourlangie, Kakadu National Park

Our second day in Kakadu was spent at Nourlangie and this was where we began to acquire a greater understanding of Aboriginal culture and to appreciate, in a more informed way, the deep connection the First Peoples of this land have with it.  Contrasted with other world ideas of ownership of land and the drive to maximise its value, we saw that, to the Aboriginal people, the land is a living entity that could be said to own them. We saw their deep and abiding connection to it and their belief that they must respect, revere and protect it or it will suffer from neglect which will, in turn, have severe repercussions for them.

Nourlangie Rock, Kakadu

"Nourlangie", an anglicised version of Nawurlandja, is actually the name given to the larger area while the lower areas are known as Anbangbang. We went to the three main areas of Burrungguy, the name of the upper part of the rock. The smoke in the photo above is from a naturally occurring fire near the Anbangbang shelter.

Namarrgon Djadjam

The photo above was taken from Gun-warddehwarddhe Lookout. The cliffs are part of the Arnhem Land escarpment and are a sacred site, not to be disturbed.

Nourlangie Rock

This area, with its extensive woodlands, wetlands, creek and cliffs offering plenty of food opportunities, would, in prehistoric times, been home to many people. Artefacts and implements uncovered when layers of soil were excavated in the 1980s indicate that the caves here were in use 20,000 to 6,000 years ago. Aboriginal people say that this area was used by the Warramal clan, traditional owners of the land and also by the Badmardi clan who came down from their higher area to get food from the billabongs and woodland areas. Now that the Warramal clan has died out the Aboriginal owners from neighbouring areas have taken on the responsibility for this area. This was carefully and respectfully explained to us by the young Aboriginal guide.

Anbangbang

At Anbangbang the rock paintings have several purposes- some tell cautionary stories which encourage the keeping of clan rules while others simply depict celebrations.

Nabulwinjbulwinj

Nabulwinjbulwinj is a very fearsome spirit for women. He knocks them out with a yam and eats them. I couldn't find out why women were at risk and how they could avoid this fate but I am sure such a threat would have been enough to ensure good behaviour.

Lightning Man, Namarrgon, and Namondjolg

Lightning Man, Namarrgon, is a very important creation spirit who even today creates the violent lightning and thunderstorms that bring the lifesaving rains. With his lightning band looping from his left ankle through his head and hands down to his right ankle and his thunder cracking axes on his elbows, head and feet I thought that he looked like he would enjoy making an entrance after the protracted dry times! 

The big form beside him is that of Namondjok but first lets see Lightning Man's wife, Barrginj. She is the figure below Namondjok. Barrginj [ Barr-jeen] is important because she is the mother of the Alyurr, the grasshoppers. These grasshoppers are important because, in the creation time, they gave the Aboriginal people their language, beliefs, values and structure of their society. The Alyurr, the amazingly beautiful blue and orange grasshoppers, are rarely seen today however they are said to appear just before the wet season when they call to their father, Lightning Man, to bring stormy relief to the people and the parched land.

Now back to Namondjok. While there are different stories about this same spirit ancestor, our guide explained that Namondjok broke clan rules by marrying unlawfully. Aboriginal laws dictate whom people may or may not marry and this is a cautionary tale that reminds people of the clan rules about marriage. Now, in Aboriginal clans a sister does not necessarily mean one's sibling but includes their first cousins on both sides of the family and also some other less clear relationships. Anyway Namondjok married his sister and was transformed into an estuarine crocodile. Other clans tell that Namondjok is an ancestor who now lives in the sky and is seen only at night near the Milky Way.

Namondjok's feather

After Namondjok married his sister she took a feather from his headdress and placed it on the rocky outcrop to show others what they had done. She then became a rainbow serpent.

Some of the art work at Anbangbang cave has been repainted many times and this shows the conditions, events and animals of the time of the repainting.

Anbangbang

Anbangbang

Anbangbang

The kangaroos we saw in the National Park were smaller than this one and often a greyish colour.

Anbangbang

Anbangbang Billabong is a kilometre or so from Nourlangie Rock. As the circular walk was closed due to the presence of crocodiles, we had to be content with enjoying lunch at one of the picnic tables. While sitting there peacefully I reflected on how resourceful and resilient the Aboriginal people there had had to be to live successfully in a beautiful but sometimes difficult environment. I also appreciated how fortunate we are to be able to gain an understanding of a culture that persists in surviving despite great difficulties having been dropped on it.

Anbangbang Billabong late June