Short Tour in Sri Lanka

Friends often decide to visit Sri Lanka while we are there so, after they have explored our beautiful village, I take them on a tour of Sri Lanka's unique historical sights that have piqued their interest. Sri Lanka, although a small island, has very many sites, sights and activities to offer any holiday maker at any time of the year. However, although the distances between places are not great in kilometres, the traffic and conditions on the roads mean that vehicles can travel only at 30 to 50 kmph. With limited time available, in this case just five days, sites and activities needed to be chosen in just one area of the country allowing for a round trip back to the airport. This tour would take in my friends' "must sees" of Kandy, Dambulla, Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and, finally a beach stop before departure from Katunayake Airport, near Negombo.

Location of the movie Bridge on the River Kwai, Kitulgala

Leaving from Olu Ella, our first stop was for morning tea at Kitulgala, a small village well known for white water rafting and for being one of the locations where the epic movie, the Bridge on the River Kwai was filmed. This 1957 movie was based on a novel about the POWs held by the Japanese in Burma during the Second World War when they were forced to build a railway from Thailand to Burma. In the story by Frenchman Pierre Boulle, a rail bridge is built by POWs and then blown up as a train approaches. Today only a pedestrian swing bridge  now spans the river at Kitulgala. I believe the government has plans to have replica of the rail bridge constructed for tourism purposes and no doubt, to charge tourists hugely to visit it. I remember the film very well. Kitulgala was also the first stop on my honeymoon almost fifty years ago so it is a place of happy memories for me.

Kelani River, Kitulgala

The Aviswella - Hatton road is rather windy and climbs steadily so we stopped for a short break. It was with amusement that I realised I have had to take a break in the same place for different friends when travelling this route! Growing up in New Zealand, windy, climbing roads have never bothered me!

Paddy fields

Kandy is almost always on a visitor's itinerary, mostly because of the Temple of the Tooth and also because it is a central city for travelling north to Dambulla and beyond as well as east  to the hill country and beyond to the South west coast. 
 

Fire walker preparing to walk the hot coals, Kandy

After attending a less than professional national dance show we walked the few metres to the Temple of the Tooth in time for the nightly pooja.

Visiting the Temple of the Tooth at 6pm is a very different experience to a visit during the day. At night the brightly lit Temple is very busy with devotees making offerings to the sacred relic, one of Buddha's teeth believed to have been picked up from the ashes of his funeral pyre. In ancient times in Lanka, it was believed that whoever had the tooth in his possession was the rightful ruler of the country.

On arrival we found the lower level already packed with people standing in front of the casket shrine watching the drummers as they drummed up expectations of this important ritual. We decided to go up the stairs and join the already lengthy line of devotees waiting to make their offerings and see the casket containing the tooth when it was raised to the next level. Flowers in hand, we joined the line and waited with other devotees, some of whom were seated around the walls praying. The drumming reached a crescendo then stopped as the casket was raised. A low hum from the worshippers indicated that the time was now and our line began to move forward, hurried along by an official. Then we were standing in front of an open window, filled with flowers and plates of money. I stopped to try to focus on seeing the casket but had the flowers taken from my hands while my arm was being pulled by an official to move on.   Worship with speed!

I have posted previously about visiting the Temple during the day and, as I like to see the historical pictures and the museum, that's my preference.

This time we were staying at Thilanka Hotel, a very pleasant hotel on the hill near the lookout over Kandy Lake. The rooms were well equipped, clean and the beds comfortable and, while the dishes offered were rather minimal for such a hotel, the food was good. After an early breakfast we left for Dambulla.

Ceiling fresco at Dambulla Cave Temples

Sigiriya in the distance from Dambulla

The Cave temples at Dambulla are half way up a mountain so there are a lot of steps to be climbed, some of them are on a slope and cut out of the huge rocks that are a feature of this part of the country.

Wewa

As it was the end of the peak tourist season and we had not booked ahead, we had problems finding a place to stay for one night in Sigiriya and ended up at Peacock Resort. I would love to own this guesthouse as it has great potential from an excellent location and grounds to almost completed buildings however in no way does it live up to its self description. It was more like a Fawlty Towers experience with food being snatched from in front of me as I was eating it! Apparently it was meant for someone else! In the morning we came out to enquire about our breakfast to find that it had been sitting on our table for an hour. Cold fried eggs and hard toast! We gave it a miss! I've had some rare things happen in guesthouses but having food snatched from me while eating it and cold unordered breakfast sitting on the table for an hour were firsts.

Royal Palace, Polonnaruwa

As a knee injury acquired while climbing up to the Dambulla caves meant that a climb up Sigiriya was not possible, we went directly to Polonnaruwa- one of my favourite historical sites. I've posted previously about this fascinating and beautiful place.

Circular Vatadage, Polonnaruwa

A visit to Polonnaruwa needs at least half a day and, because the monuments and points of interest are spread over a wide area, transport inside the boundaries is needed. Some young people had hired bikes, others were tuk tukking while some hardy older couples were walking between some of the sites in the hot sun. 

By mid day, the sun is rather intense during the dry season so an umbrella is very useful, along with a water bottle. While there are a couple of places where there is an ice cream cart - near the Gal Potha  for one, food and water is really bring your own. As for other essential amenities such as bathrooms - there are none at all except at the Museum where you purchase your entry ticket. At Rs 3250 for foreigners and receiving very many visitors daily some of this money should be used to provide the necessities. Being Sri Lanka, that's unlikely to happen.

Ancient dagaba, Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka

Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya, Sri Lanka

Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya,  provided the perfect end to my short Taste of Sri Lanka tour with Olivia and Andrew. What a perfect last night it was with a moonlight cocktails and dinner on the beach! So peaceful and still with the calming sh sh sh sh shshshsh of the waves as they gently found the shore.

Beach at Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya

Dinner deserves a special mention. It was both beautifully presented and delectable! And served with a genuine cheerful smile ! Unusually for such places in Sri Lanka the menu was big, not only on locally sourced seafood caught on the day, but also Chinese, Indian, Sri Lankan and pasta dishes so it took us some time, and a few cocktails, to make our choices.

Evening on the beach at Kalpitiya

Omeesha Resort is in a less developed part of the beach on the southern part of Kalpitiya. As I walked alone along in the soft surf I felt free to relax and enjoy the moment. No vigilance regarding personal safety for a lone woman was needed here, as it is at Arugum Bay, Hikkadudwa, Bentota and other overdeveloped tourist beaches of the south. Just relax and enjoy. You can here. For now, at least. As we had come down the approach road  on arrival I had noticed blocks of land with signs indicating that this and that company's resort is to be built there soon. Not too soon, I hope. I intend to return for a longer stay on our next trip.

Kalpitiya Beach

The next morning I was up early for another walk along a deserted beach. As I wandered along I dodged the big crabs as they scuttled from the sandbanks, pausing briefly to pick up an incoming tide surge then disappearing safely in the edge of foam. Hovering seabirds then moved on to other targets. The gentle surge produced a more energetic wave that took me by surprise, splashing over my covered knees. A few fishing boats further up the beach were leaving for a day at sea.

Later some of the German tourists went for a swim in the sea. Water sports such as wind surfing, wake boarding and surfing are becoming popular at this lovely part of the central western coast.

Whale and Dolphin watching from Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya

On the beach in front of Omeesha whale and dolphin watching tourists were heading out to sea. The twenty minute boat ride to these marine mammal's playground would be especially pleasant on the calm, quiet sea today. Sperm whales are often seen between  December and the middle of April while dolphins play around out there pretty much all the time.

Kalpitiya Beach

The wind farm along the beach line had been a surprise and a bit of a concern for us as we checked in at Omeesha. We had wondered if the noise of the propellers would be troublesome. It wasn't! Once we were inside our cabanas, no sound could be heard at all! When taking a shower under the stars outside, the gentle woosh, woosh was soothing.

Cabana, Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya

 Omeesha Resort is a family owned and managed resort built by Keerthi [ Nixon] and Mali Peiris in 2011. The two budget, three double and two family cabanas, all built in an eco friendly way are off a central cadjanz fenced and covered walkway with the attractive and comfortable restaurant in the middle. Mali and Keerthi were the nicest of hosts so focused on ensuring their guests have a wonderful holiday, attended to by happy well trained staff, that they have decided to limit the number of cabanas to ten.

Outside shower, Omeesha Resort

 The outside bathrooms were tastefully decorated and equipped with every item a guest might need, as were the cabanas.

Walkway at Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya

With a last look out over the Indian Ocean towards Kerala, where I would be in a couple of weeks, I made my way to the restaurant for breakfast.

Restaurant, Omeesha Resort

Once again the menu had been a challenge with its variety of offerings. I had decided on coconut roti with dahl and potato curries but first came the fruit plate.

The chef at Omeesha was amazingly young, only nineteen years old, but personally responsible for all the beautifully presented and delicious dishes. He has a great future!

Coconut roti, dahl and potato curry for breakfast

 Breakfast over, we said our goodbyes to our lovely hosts and headed for Negombo, 150 kilometres and about three hours or so south. There I left Olivia and Andrew to wait for their flight from Katunayake airport nearby.

Kalpitiya

Omeesha Resort had been a great find for us, especially after our experience in Sigiriya. Travelling at peak tourism times without pre booking accommodation often results grossly inferior accommodation at high prices somewhere in your itinerary. Sometimes, however, last minute plans need to be made, so the bad has to be endured and the lovely places celebrated.

Kalpitiya has been neglected in the past but its potential is now being recognised. Its location is perfect for a short beach stopover for travellers breaking a long journey between hemispheres. It's also a pleasant and not too long drive from Anuradhapura with Wilpattu National Park within easy reach too.

Our itinerary for this short trip was from Olu Ella to Kitulgala - Kandy - Dambulla - Sigiriya - Polonnaruwa - Kalpitiya - Negombo. I should add that unless you have a lot of time to spare such a short itinerary can only be done with a car and driver. Fortunately I personally know a couple of  sole operator tour guides and one was available for this short and short - notice tour.

Kalpitiya Beach, Sri Lanka

Now that I've found a beautiful, quiet beach with the bonus of excellent accommodation, I will be back soon!