Arrival in God's Own Country, Kerala and Kovalam

Welcome to Kerala, God's Own Country proclaimed the sign! 

What a relief it was to get off that Sri Lankan Airlines hour long flight from Katunayake, Sri Lanka to Trivanduram, India and have our feet firmly planted on solid land! 

Unfortunately for us, the welcome lasted just long enough for me to read the sign as, when I placed my passport on front of the immigration officer, I was left in no doubt that I had already outlived any such welcome. 

The problem was that my racial appearance bore no resemblance to the family name on my passport, so the logic of the Immigration authority was that my passport was fake. When I pulled my husband forward and explained that, on our marriage some forty seven years ago, I had taken his name, the hostility moved directly and squarely in his face. While my visa was examined by three other officers, stamped and orders given to me to "Go Away!' he was kept for ten minutes and haranged for marrying an inferior Western woman instead of one of his own race. We were to find out that this marriage was widely disapproved of in Kerala with Sam being treated as a "bought boy" by restaurant staff and two hotels and one home stay refusing to allow us to share a room until we produced evidence that we were, indeed, married. This had happened to us in Sri Lanka when we were younger but came as a huge shock now.

Devi Kripa Home stay hosts

We finally escaped the airport to be met by our first Keralan home stay hosts, Anil and Lekha, whose warm friendliness quickly overcame any surprise at seeing our unconventional partnership.

Devi Kripa Home Stay, Kovalam

Kerala is a Communist governed State, something we decided had both advantages and disadvantages. One of the advantages is that the tourism sector of the economy is very well organised for do it yourself travellers, something Sri Lanka could well take a look at. I found it easy to find home stay options because every home stay has to be registered, is audited yearly and ranked in a three tier category system. Devi Kripa Home Stay in Kovalam, has a well deserved top Gold Star rating. On arrival we were amazed to see that we had two levels to ourselves. Upstairs was a good sized bedroom complete with aircon and large "wet" kind of bathroom while downstairs we had a kitchen and sitting room. The bedroom was tastefully furnished with a large wardrobe, dressing table and stool as well as in room tea and coffee making equipment. The balconies provided a lovely sit out in the cooler early mornings and evenings.

I was not feeling at all well after eating what I had thought was a home cooked meatball just hours before we left Sri Lanka, so for the first two days I could not enjoy the beautifully cooked Keralan dishes that had been thoughtfully prepared for us. Neither could we put into action our prepared sightseeing plan, instead resting quietly in the aircon and being thankful that our home stay was down a quiet lane away from the main road where smelly rubbish was being swept up and burned roadside.

Our first night coincided with  a religious procession with the Goddess from the local temple being paraded around the narrow streets of the neighourhood. Feeling unwell, I had to give up my plan to join the procession and slept soundly despite the fireworks and music that lasted until first light. In the morning we hopped in an auto rickshaw aka tuk tuk and went around the narrow winding lanes to see the decorations and shrines outside the homes of devotees.

Hindu goddess

The photo does not do justice to this temporary street shrine with its offerings of grapes, apples, pineapples, melons, flowers and garlands. It was a wonderful display of devotion!

After following the procession's route and noting that groups of people were cleaning up the discarded water bottles and food wrappers, we continued to the Kovalam beaches.

Kovalam beach

There are four small beaches, each one separated by a rocky outcrop. As we were there at the end of the tourist season, the many seaside restaurants and shops were having a quiet time. Accommodation here is in the budget range.

Kovalam beach

The Lighthouse Beach seemed to be the most popular one today with quite a few men in the water while the women merely wet their ankles at the edge.

Lighthouse Beach, Kovalam, Kerala

Unlike beaches here in Australia, there were no public change rooms so my lukewarm idea of a sea dip was banished in favour of a very much needed back massage.

Aluthgama and Bentota

Ahhh! Bentota!  That expansive white - yellow sand on a palm fringed beach is an excellent choice for holiday makers seeking sun, sand and a relaxed holiday!

Bentota Beach

A popular destination for holiday package tourists, Bentota, now an easy one hundred or so kilometre drive from Katunayake airport, has much on offer, especially beach and water based activities of snorkelling, diving, wind surfing, water skiing. We travelled smoothly on the new expressway, which, while it is an easier ride,  misses the hustle and sights of the old Galle Road.

Bentota River

Our holiday apartment was in Aluthgama, across the road from the Bentota River, so  I was soon sitting on the river bank watching some jet ski fun, boats returning from cruises a well as small boats adorned with fishing rods heading upstream for a bit of tourist fishing. The river cruise was a great hit with one family who excitedly reported seeing baby crocodiles and water lizards. 

That's a baby one!

As I sat and watched the world glide by, I acquired a curious, but shy, companion who gazed at me with gorgeous eyes until an adult's command had him run safely home.

Kindergarten class

It is forty years since we last visited Bentota and we were here to visit friends who had been targeted in  racial and religious riots some months back. Their homes still in disrepair, they welcomed us so cheerfully and generously that breakfast was the only meal of any day that we found for ourselves. By day, we were taken by tuk tuk to explore wherever we wanted, returning to one of the extended family's homes for lunch and to another home for the evening meal. Despite their ordeal, the reality of living in homes still under major repair and difficulty in knowing whom they could trust, they were cheerful and seemed hopeful of better things to come. 
One morning I was able go with my host family to visit a kindergarten and also a junior class. The kindergarten children start lessons very early and took a breakfast break soon after my arrival so I was able to chat with the teachers about their lessons and hopes. When I visit again, I plan on taking acrylic paints and accessories for the children to have an opportunity to be creative with their art. Such things are luxury in schools here where education is learned so formally. I visit several schools whenever I come here and notice that the curriculum in this country seems so restrictive considering the rapid changes in technology, the elimination of many clerical jobs and high need for coding skills in the future. Of course, those in this country who have money and power have their children in more up to the minute private schools, studying an international curriculum and receiving private tuition before going overseas to University.

Near Beruwala

It was a sobering tuk tuk ride around the coast road from Bentota to Beruwala. This area was very badly affected by the December 26th, 2004 tsunami which took more than 35,000 lives in Sri Lanka. Very many more than that, is my opinion as I had  travelled by train from the South of the country during the week before the tsunami and had been appalled by the seemingly wall to wall shanties, teaming with children, that lined the coast between the track and high tide line from Galle to almost Mount Lavinia. Most of those shanty dwellers would not have been registered and therefore, not counted. I did hear very recently that the numbers of people lost were being raised. While we saw a plaque in the ground and a community centre that had been built with tsunami money, I couldn't bring myself to take photos. Too, too, sad.

Masjidul Abrar Mosque

We found the oldest mosque in Sri Lanka on standing atop the peninsular in Beruwala. Built in 920AD by the Arab traders it is a remarkable landmark between the ocean and the fishing harbour. We spent an informative and peaceful hour here being shown around by a young man who, having noted our progress along the road from Bentota, was ready to offer his services. His tour was very enjoyable so we were happy to respond to his request for payment for his time. I do wish he hadn't given us one of the usual hardship stories though.

Fishing boats at Beruwala

The day was very still and not too hot for our tuk tuk tour. Younger tourists were also out exploring but by bike, scooter or motorbike and we met up at the icecream tuk tuk. I learned that some of the hotels make bikes available for their guests and I think it a great way to explore this flat area.

Beruwala beach

After our cool ice cream stop, we headed away from the beach and soon saw a massive Buddha dwarfing the people and tuk tuks parked below. This gigantic seated Buddha was a recent addition to an ancient Kande Viharaya Temple and is said to be the tallest sitting Buddha statue in the world. Thinking of all the other "Big" constructions elsewhere in the world [ bananas, pineapples, kiwi fruits etc] it would be a shame for such a relevant philosophy that Buddhism is, to be so cheapened by a desire to be the biggest. The recent proliferation of such statues everywhere doesn't sit well with my understandings of the principles of Buddhism which has at its core the fundamental idea that there is no happiness in greed, pretense, ego and so on. In fact most sermons have references to letting go of ego, emotions and the causes of personal suffering. To me, the lessons from Buddhism include the realisation that I am but a microscopic spec in the passing of the ages, my ego is irrelevant.

Samdhi Buddha, Beruwala

Kande Viharaya Buddha, Bentota

As my companion was becoming tired I wasn't able to go inside to see the paintings of the Buddhist stories and I look forward to doing that on another trip.

Bo Tree, Bentota

Just outside the temple gate there is a impressive Bo tree, encircled by shrines.

So, that's a glimpse of Bentota through my eyes! 

Note for travellers: 
Weatherwise, if water sports and the beach is the attraction for you the seas are at their best here from around November to April. There are so many other things here to explore such as the Portuguese and Dutch history. It's an ideal place for day trips to Galle, the turtle sanctuary at Kosgoda and more. There's accommodation to suit all budgets, plenty of restaurants serving all kinds of food - except western fast foods - and a train station at Aluthgama.

Sri Lankan Curry Powder

Although it's the Man of the House who does most of the cooking where I live there are, however, specific cooking related jobs that are all mine. You guessed! Yes! The cleaning up after the daily event! I should add that, after a satisfying meal, I am happy to do that. As the cook also does the time and money consuming grocery shopping, I feel that I have the best end of the arrangement.

Making the curry powder is another of my traditional tasks, so having been reminded just a few times that I wouldn't be served a proper curry until I produced a freshly ground pot or two, today was the Big Day. Fortunately it was also a warm, spring day so I was able to open all doors and windows to allow the neighbourhood the pleasure of the spicy aromas that began to waft from my kitchen.

Ingredients for a Sri Lankan Curry powder

My recipe was given to me more than forty years ago by the most generous, kind hearted and friendly Sri Lankan lady I have ever known, Wimal Perera. Every time I make curry powder I remember her and especially a story she told me, very seriously, when we were talking about having children. I had just produced my third and final baby. It was after one of her famously delicious and traditional lunches and she was sitting with me while I was feeding him when she revealed that after her marriage the babies didn't come and the families were so worried that they took her to the holy Hindu shrine at Kataragama, in Sri Lanka, to seek divine intervention. Shortly afterwards she realised that this had worked and she produced a son, followed in quick succession by three more babies, another son and two daughters. "Enough!" she said. And went back to Kataragama to say "Thank you! But no more babies!" Wimal was considerably older than I and has now passed away leaving me with her recipe and many happy memories.

More ingredients for Sri Lankan Curry powder

To make curry powder you need a heavy bottomed pan which you heat a little before dry roasting the various seeds. I start with the coriander seeds and the heat on high, stirring and shaking the pan as the seeds begin to turn colour and start jumping and popping around in the pan.

Coriander seeds

When the seeds are ready - darker and dry - I spread them over a thick pile of newspaper covered with lunch wrap to cool.

Roasted coriander seeds cooling

I then roast separately the cumin, fennel, rice and black pepper seeds BUT leave the coconut until the very last because it roasts very quickly and also is sticky on the pan.

Cumin seeds dry roasting

I love all of the individual aromas of these spices but the fennel and clove aromas are my favourite!

Fennel seeds

The pan becomes very hot so it's necessary to lower the heat as well as to stir and shake so that the seeds are roasted evenly. The rice is included as a thickening agent for the curry.

I roast the cardomon pods, cloves and broken cinnamon sticks together, adding the lemon grass and curry leaves at the last minute. They dry out in just a few seconds. 

The very last ingredient to roast is the coconut and care needs to be taken not to burn it. 

By now all the ingredients are layered, cooling on the thick paper. I tip them into a lidded plastic box and shake to mix thoroughly and for easy pick up to go into the grinder.

Grinding is the next step. It's not necessary to grind forever to get a fine powder.

Ground curry powder

Smells great! Can't wait for that lamb curry tonight!

Wimal's Sri Lankan Curry Powder

The aroma must have reached my daughter's house a suburb away! She's just put in her order for a bottle! [ Oh! I posted on facebook. Ooops!]

Short Tour in Sri Lanka

Friends often decide to visit Sri Lanka while we are there so, after they have explored our beautiful village, I take them on a tour of Sri Lanka's unique historical sights that have piqued their interest. Sri Lanka, although a small island, has very many sites, sights and activities to offer any holiday maker at any time of the year. However, although the distances between places are not great in kilometres, the traffic and conditions on the roads mean that vehicles can travel only at 30 to 50 kmph. With limited time available, in this case just five days, sites and activities needed to be chosen in just one area of the country allowing for a round trip back to the airport. This tour would take in my friends' "must sees" of Kandy, Dambulla, Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and, finally a beach stop before departure from Katunayake Airport, near Negombo.

Location of the movie Bridge on the River Kwai, Kitulgala

Leaving from Olu Ella, our first stop was for morning tea at Kitulgala, a small village well known for white water rafting and for being one of the locations where the epic movie, the Bridge on the River Kwai was filmed. This 1957 movie was based on a novel about the POWs held by the Japanese in Burma during the Second World War when they were forced to build a railway from Thailand to Burma. In the story by Frenchman Pierre Boulle, a rail bridge is built by POWs and then blown up as a train approaches. Today only a pedestrian swing bridge  now spans the river at Kitulgala. I believe the government has plans to have replica of the rail bridge constructed for tourism purposes and no doubt, to charge tourists hugely to visit it. I remember the film very well. Kitulgala was also the first stop on my honeymoon almost fifty years ago so it is a place of happy memories for me.

Kelani River, Kitulgala

The Aviswella - Hatton road is rather windy and climbs steadily so we stopped for a short break. It was with amusement that I realised I have had to take a break in the same place for different friends when travelling this route! Growing up in New Zealand, windy, climbing roads have never bothered me!

Paddy fields

Kandy is almost always on a visitor's itinerary, mostly because of the Temple of the Tooth and also because it is a central city for travelling north to Dambulla and beyond as well as east  to the hill country and beyond to the South west coast. 
 

Fire walker preparing to walk the hot coals, Kandy

After attending a less than professional national dance show we walked the few metres to the Temple of the Tooth in time for the nightly pooja.

Visiting the Temple of the Tooth at 6pm is a very different experience to a visit during the day. At night the brightly lit Temple is very busy with devotees making offerings to the sacred relic, one of Buddha's teeth believed to have been picked up from the ashes of his funeral pyre. In ancient times in Lanka, it was believed that whoever had the tooth in his possession was the rightful ruler of the country.

On arrival we found the lower level already packed with people standing in front of the casket shrine watching the drummers as they drummed up expectations of this important ritual. We decided to go up the stairs and join the already lengthy line of devotees waiting to make their offerings and see the casket containing the tooth when it was raised to the next level. Flowers in hand, we joined the line and waited with other devotees, some of whom were seated around the walls praying. The drumming reached a crescendo then stopped as the casket was raised. A low hum from the worshippers indicated that the time was now and our line began to move forward, hurried along by an official. Then we were standing in front of an open window, filled with flowers and plates of money. I stopped to try to focus on seeing the casket but had the flowers taken from my hands while my arm was being pulled by an official to move on.   Worship with speed!

I have posted previously about visiting the Temple during the day and, as I like to see the historical pictures and the museum, that's my preference.

This time we were staying at Thilanka Hotel, a very pleasant hotel on the hill near the lookout over Kandy Lake. The rooms were well equipped, clean and the beds comfortable and, while the dishes offered were rather minimal for such a hotel, the food was good. After an early breakfast we left for Dambulla.

Ceiling fresco at Dambulla Cave Temples

Sigiriya in the distance from Dambulla

The Cave temples at Dambulla are half way up a mountain so there are a lot of steps to be climbed, some of them are on a slope and cut out of the huge rocks that are a feature of this part of the country.

Wewa

As it was the end of the peak tourist season and we had not booked ahead, we had problems finding a place to stay for one night in Sigiriya and ended up at Peacock Resort. I would love to own this guesthouse as it has great potential from an excellent location and grounds to almost completed buildings however in no way does it live up to its self description. It was more like a Fawlty Towers experience with food being snatched from in front of me as I was eating it! Apparently it was meant for someone else! In the morning we came out to enquire about our breakfast to find that it had been sitting on our table for an hour. Cold fried eggs and hard toast! We gave it a miss! I've had some rare things happen in guesthouses but having food snatched from me while eating it and cold unordered breakfast sitting on the table for an hour were firsts.

Royal Palace, Polonnaruwa

As a knee injury acquired while climbing up to the Dambulla caves meant that a climb up Sigiriya was not possible, we went directly to Polonnaruwa- one of my favourite historical sites. I've posted previously about this fascinating and beautiful place.

Circular Vatadage, Polonnaruwa

A visit to Polonnaruwa needs at least half a day and, because the monuments and points of interest are spread over a wide area, transport inside the boundaries is needed. Some young people had hired bikes, others were tuk tukking while some hardy older couples were walking between some of the sites in the hot sun. 

By mid day, the sun is rather intense during the dry season so an umbrella is very useful, along with a water bottle. While there are a couple of places where there is an ice cream cart - near the Gal Potha  for one, food and water is really bring your own. As for other essential amenities such as bathrooms - there are none at all except at the Museum where you purchase your entry ticket. At Rs 3250 for foreigners and receiving very many visitors daily some of this money should be used to provide the necessities. Being Sri Lanka, that's unlikely to happen.

Ancient dagaba, Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka

Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya, Sri Lanka

Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya,  provided the perfect end to my short Taste of Sri Lanka tour with Olivia and Andrew. What a perfect last night it was with a moonlight cocktails and dinner on the beach! So peaceful and still with the calming sh sh sh sh shshshsh of the waves as they gently found the shore.

Beach at Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya

Dinner deserves a special mention. It was both beautifully presented and delectable! And served with a genuine cheerful smile ! Unusually for such places in Sri Lanka the menu was big, not only on locally sourced seafood caught on the day, but also Chinese, Indian, Sri Lankan and pasta dishes so it took us some time, and a few cocktails, to make our choices.

Evening on the beach at Kalpitiya

Omeesha Resort is in a less developed part of the beach on the southern part of Kalpitiya. As I walked alone along in the soft surf I felt free to relax and enjoy the moment. No vigilance regarding personal safety for a lone woman was needed here, as it is at Arugum Bay, Hikkadudwa, Bentota and other overdeveloped tourist beaches of the south. Just relax and enjoy. You can here. For now, at least. As we had come down the approach road  on arrival I had noticed blocks of land with signs indicating that this and that company's resort is to be built there soon. Not too soon, I hope. I intend to return for a longer stay on our next trip.

Kalpitiya Beach

The next morning I was up early for another walk along a deserted beach. As I wandered along I dodged the big crabs as they scuttled from the sandbanks, pausing briefly to pick up an incoming tide surge then disappearing safely in the edge of foam. Hovering seabirds then moved on to other targets. The gentle surge produced a more energetic wave that took me by surprise, splashing over my covered knees. A few fishing boats further up the beach were leaving for a day at sea.

Later some of the German tourists went for a swim in the sea. Water sports such as wind surfing, wake boarding and surfing are becoming popular at this lovely part of the central western coast.

Whale and Dolphin watching from Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya

On the beach in front of Omeesha whale and dolphin watching tourists were heading out to sea. The twenty minute boat ride to these marine mammal's playground would be especially pleasant on the calm, quiet sea today. Sperm whales are often seen between  December and the middle of April while dolphins play around out there pretty much all the time.

Kalpitiya Beach

The wind farm along the beach line had been a surprise and a bit of a concern for us as we checked in at Omeesha. We had wondered if the noise of the propellers would be troublesome. It wasn't! Once we were inside our cabanas, no sound could be heard at all! When taking a shower under the stars outside, the gentle woosh, woosh was soothing.

Cabana, Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya

 Omeesha Resort is a family owned and managed resort built by Keerthi [ Nixon] and Mali Peiris in 2011. The two budget, three double and two family cabanas, all built in an eco friendly way are off a central cadjanz fenced and covered walkway with the attractive and comfortable restaurant in the middle. Mali and Keerthi were the nicest of hosts so focused on ensuring their guests have a wonderful holiday, attended to by happy well trained staff, that they have decided to limit the number of cabanas to ten.

Outside shower, Omeesha Resort

 The outside bathrooms were tastefully decorated and equipped with every item a guest might need, as were the cabanas.

Walkway at Omeesha Resort, Kalpitiya

With a last look out over the Indian Ocean towards Kerala, where I would be in a couple of weeks, I made my way to the restaurant for breakfast.

Restaurant, Omeesha Resort

Once again the menu had been a challenge with its variety of offerings. I had decided on coconut roti with dahl and potato curries but first came the fruit plate.

The chef at Omeesha was amazingly young, only nineteen years old, but personally responsible for all the beautifully presented and delicious dishes. He has a great future!

Coconut roti, dahl and potato curry for breakfast

 Breakfast over, we said our goodbyes to our lovely hosts and headed for Negombo, 150 kilometres and about three hours or so south. There I left Olivia and Andrew to wait for their flight from Katunayake airport nearby.

Kalpitiya

Omeesha Resort had been a great find for us, especially after our experience in Sigiriya. Travelling at peak tourism times without pre booking accommodation often results grossly inferior accommodation at high prices somewhere in your itinerary. Sometimes, however, last minute plans need to be made, so the bad has to be endured and the lovely places celebrated.

Kalpitiya has been neglected in the past but its potential is now being recognised. Its location is perfect for a short beach stopover for travellers breaking a long journey between hemispheres. It's also a pleasant and not too long drive from Anuradhapura with Wilpattu National Park within easy reach too.

Our itinerary for this short trip was from Olu Ella to Kitulgala - Kandy - Dambulla - Sigiriya - Polonnaruwa - Kalpitiya - Negombo. I should add that unless you have a lot of time to spare such a short itinerary can only be done with a car and driver. Fortunately I personally know a couple of  sole operator tour guides and one was available for this short and short - notice tour.

Kalpitiya Beach, Sri Lanka

Now that I've found a beautiful, quiet beach with the bonus of excellent accommodation, I will be back soon!