Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Lake Burrinjuck to Batemans Bay

After five relaxing days at Lake Burrinjuck we were ready to move on so after an easy and early camp pull down we were soon on the Hume Highway from where we took the Yass exit to the Hume Highway where we stocked up on fruit, vegetables and wine. We had been to Yass several times during the past ten years and once again enjoyed a drive down the historic main street which features many old pubs, post and verandah style. Only about three of them are now functioning as pubs, the others have been converted into other business premises.
Yass Post Office, New South Wales
Yass means "running water", "Yharr" in the local Aboriginal language and the Yass River runs through the town. It is only 60 kilometres from Canberra and some of its 5600 population commute daily for work.

We then took the Yass Valley Way until we joined the Barton Highway which we followed for a further 14 km to Murrumbateman, a lovely rural village just thirty minutes from northern Canberra. It's a really picturesque village which we explored very thoroughly last year, and because a family member now has firm plans to live there, we'll visit regularly. There are many vineyards in the area which is growing quite rapidly as those who would like a more rural lifestyle begin to appreciate its friendly relaxed feel and close proximity to Canberra.
Murrumbateman on the Barton Highway
I took the photo above last June. The creek is now waterless, its bed cracked with deep fissures.
Cool Climate Wine, Murrumbateman
Most of Murrumbateman's population of around 1,800 and growing live on acreage and have a variety of animals, especially alpacas, sheep and horses.
Rural lifestyle at Murrumbateman
From Murrumbateman we then took the Bungendore Road which is a lovely drive through more vineyards. At the Gundaroo road intersection we turned off for another nostalgic visit to the old church, where our son and daughter in law were married three years ago, before crossing the Federal Highway and continuing on to Bungendore. A camera malfunction meant that I lost my own photos of Gundaroo.
Presbyterian Church, Gundaroo -wipedia
The road to Bungendore climbs quite steeply over some hills and there is a lovely view of the plains on the other side. No place to pull over for a photo though. We had been in Bungendore earlier in the year experiencing both greener landscapes and heavy frosts. This time everything was tinder dry and the wind searingly hot so, unwilling to get out of the car, we continued along the road now known as the Kings Highway towards Batemans Bay.
Near Bungendore
 Roadside rest areas are usually well sign posted several kilometres before you come to them so I lowered our speed to check out this one at the Shoalhaven River. Set well back off the road with tall eucalyptus and other gum trees, covered picnic tables and conveniences it suited us very well. We chose the shadiest table, pulled out our lunch which we managed to eat before an army of large black ants came to join our picnic. Leaving them to enjoy the crumbs we relocated to another spot and, noting that a coolish breeze [ well, not the really hot one that chased us off the lower plains] had arrived we went for a walk and found fifteen caravans or tents nestled under the tall trees - an informal camping spot.
Shoalhaven River, Kings Highway bridge



Owl in a Gum tree, Shoalhaven River rest area
 When I first noticed this and other "artwork" high up in the gum trees I was annoyed at the graffiti, thinking that they had been spray painted. Once I was directly underneath I realised that they were made of thin tin and tied on without damaging the trees.

Soon after leaving Braidwood the Kings Highway begins the climb through the southern end of the Budawang Range through two National Parks, the Bimberamala to the north and the Monga to the south. This part of the highway demanded maximum attention and energy plus all the skills I learned as a new driver travelling Arthur's Pass in New Zealand's South Island and the Rimutakas in the lower North Island. As I negotiated the bends that were often almost circular as well as steep I thought that this was to be the most challenging drive of the trip however it later lost that rating. The glimpses of the beautiful forests and massive cycads on the forest floor were just that - glimpses - as there were absolutely no places where I could stop. Ten kilometres after the beautiful riverside village of Nelligen the Kings Highway meets the Princes Highway close to Batemans Bay, on the mouth of the Clyde River.
Bridge across the Clyde River
As I drove across this bridge I noticed the functioning traffic lights at the end but it wasn't until I was near the centre that I realised that this bridge has a liftable span. Apparently it is still very much used with about 1000 lifts per year and a minimum of one hour's noticed needed to lift it. Amazing!

Knowing that Batemans Bay is a popular beach getaway for Canberrans I expected a larger more energetic town, especially as we were there at the beginning of the peak holiday season. Instead I found a quiet, even slow seaside village where our days exploring passed very pleasantly.

South Durass
South Durass
Cormorant on Clyde River, New South Wales
Oyster catcher on Clyde River, Batemans Bay
South Durass, New South Wales
This was our first experience of the beaches on the South Coast and with the small bays, heavy surf and massive rocks they reminded me more of some New Zealand beaches than those of Queensland. I enjoyed seeing the variety of water birds which sometimes stayed close by as I tried to photograph them with my elderly camera. Fortunately, as my usual 15 month old Canon Powershot G12 died at the lake, I had put this one in the camera bag at the very last minute.

We now had a firm arrangement to meet my sister to have a few days together so we now needed to leave Batemans Bay and head for Lakes Entrance in Victoria, some 450 kilometres away.

Saturday, January 12, 2013

Forbes to Lake Burrinjuck


Although we had intended staying just one night at Forbes we hadn’t even set up camp before we decided to stay for two nights. The Apex Riverside Tourist Park is on the banks of the Lachlan River and was a very small, quiet and well equipped park. That decided, we put up the tent and made ourselves comfortable. Too lazy to do anything we were content to relax beside the river and watch the many parrots, cockatoos and magpies as they flew down to drink perching on a log protruding in the river.

Two days later, feeling relaxed and refreshed, we were on the road again this time taking the Henry Lawson Way through Grenfell where we paused to see the grave of Henry Lawson, one of our great poets.
Henry Lawson's memorial

Then it was on to Young, a beautiful town in the middle of a fruit, grain and sheep producing area. Here we took a long lunch break and left town, stopping not far out at a farm roadside shop where I bought the most juicy and sweet cherries I have ever tasted. As we had been warned not to rely on the ipad maps as they had been proved to be very wrong with users becoming lost in the desert area of South Australia, I set the Navman for the location of our intended camp on Lake Burrinjuck. All was well until we passed through Harden when the voice instructed me to turn left. Several turns later I realised that I had been taken around in circles so Navman was off and out came the old fashioned map book and we eventually found the Hume Highway.
St Columban's Church, Bookham

Feeling the need for a stress relieving coffee we took advantage of a break at a very small place, Bookham, where not only did we get excellent coffee and pleasant conversation we were also directed to the nearby turn off for Lake Burrinjuck.

Echidna, Lake Burrinjuck Road
From the Highway, a sign informed us that we had 31 km to go so we happily enjoyed these last few kilometres looking forward to setting up camp and enjoying a glass or two of our favourite wine while enjoying the view of the lake as the sun went down. Spurred by these happy thoughts we went down the narrow road stopping to see a couple of echidna feeding by the roadside.



Lake Burrinjuck, New South Wales
After 15km the road began to climb and twist and the lake was visible through the trees. At one point I was startled to find a black rock wallaby on the road in front of me but with a couple of hops he was nimbly scaling the rocks up the mountain, followed by his mate who emerged from between some of the lower level rocks. Those we saw looked like the one below - not my photo as it happened all too quickly to get to the camera!
Black Rock Wallaby
 On our arrival at the Lake Burrinjuck State Park we found that we were not where we had intended but instead on the opposite arm of the lake! Never mind. It looked so lovely we decided to stay- a benefit of Freedom Travelling!
 


Our allocated site gave us views out over the lake and as we hammered pegs into the rock - hard ground we decided to extend our stay beyond the planned three days. Before long we had erected a simple camp and were sipping our promised glass of New Zealand wine while getting to know our camp companions, the kangaroos, cockatoos, parrots and several other types of birds.
Our camp at Lake Burrinjuck
This kangaroo was so daring and persistent that we had to retire to the van to eat our breakfast!
Kangaroo at breakfast
Sulphur Crested Cockatoo
Red Wattle Bird
King Parrot
Crimson Rosella
Australian King Parrot
One morning we followed a track along the lakeside.
Lake side track, Lake Burrinjuck
As we live in a big city we appreciated seeing the kangaroos hiding in the bush. This big daddy kept us under observation while Mamma quickly took their youngster deeper into the bush.

In the absence of his mother his young one was unsure what to do as we walked right past him only a metre or two away.

A number of orange butterflies flitted from branch to branch, pausing so briefly it was difficult to photograph them.
Butterfly, Lake Burrinjuck


I was intrigued by this gum tree with its hard knobs of gum with roots growing out.
Gum tree
Our three days stay became five as we relaxed and did nothing other than to watch the kangaroos and birds and take a relaxed walk around the lake. No phone signal, no internet and no TV. It was just what we needed at the start of our lengthy camping tour.
Lake Burrinjuck, New South Wales

[ As I finally publish this post bush fires are burning near Lake Burrinjuck. No human lives have been lost however I am thinking of the many animals that will have suddenly lost their battle to live.]