Saturday, August 24, 2024
Not past my use by date and total knee replacement surgery
Tuesday, April 16, 2024
Bao Dai, the 13th and Last Emperor of Vietnam's Summer Palace
Our plan today was to visit the Dalat Cathedral and to then go to the Emperor's Summer Palace but plans are made to be changed. Our Grab had gone only a short distance along the main road when we came to a standstill. Lots of police were present. Traffic was at a standstill and a detour was needed. Of course the detour then became clogged with traffic so, after sitting still for fifteen minutes, I asked the driver via the Translate App, if he could take us to the Palace instead. A U turn was then executed and we were off to the Palace. At this point I got a message on the Grab app noting that we were off the registered route and asking if I was safe. Well done Grab! No wonder Grab is a trusted app in several countries.
Path at Bao Dai's Palace |
So many different flowers - and a deer |
rickshaw at Emperor's Palace, Dalat |
Emperor Bao Dai's Palace and Garden |
Ground Floor |
Throne room |
As Emperor, he was regarded as being ineffectual and a puppet of the French. After the French were chased out by the Japanese in 1945 his influence and power became even less. When the Japanese were defeated in World War II, Bao Dai was ousted via a allegedly rigged referendum organised by a United States supported Ngo Dinh Diem. After this forced abdication, Bao Dai was given a nominal position of advisor for the North of the Country and Diem took up residence at this Summer Palace. While on a diplomatic mission to China Bao Dai seized his chance and fled, firstly to Hong Kong and later to France where he lived without ever returning to Vietnam until his death in 1997.
After lunch at the cafe we took a leisurely stroll around the back of the palace and garden, noting the heliport installed for Diem who also had a secret tunnel connecting it to the palace. Some say that the entrance is hidden behind a bookshelf.
Garden at Emperor's Palace, Dalat |
the Jade or emerald vine, Strongylodon macrobotrys |
Later in our trip we will be in Hue, the centre of the Nguyen Dynasty, where we will visit the Tomb of Khai Dinh - Bao Dai's father's tomb. Bao Dai's own tomb will not be such a grand one. He was buried in Paris.
Thursday, April 11, 2024
The Pongour Waterfall, the Linh An Pagoda, a cricket appetiser and a memorable restaurant
The drive to Pongour waterfall, 55 km south of Da Lat, was an hour's drive along the same road we had taken from the airport. We then branched off onto a smaller road through a couple of towns and then again onto a narrow road through the countryside. This road had only a few houses and went through banana, coffee plantations, fields of corn, cabbages and tomatoes. This area is very much a food growing bowl. We saw a few bullocks, smaller and browner than those in Sri Lanka but no cows. I'm wondering where they all are considering the fresh milk we bought in Ho Chi Minh was from 'Dalat farms."
The terrain was flat and my maps indicated that we were near the waterfall. There was a river on our left, the Da Nhim river. That must be the source of the waterfall I thought, but where was the "fall" aspect. Ahh !! We came to a decorated, barred gate and an attendant quickly appeared as apparently we had to buy a ticket to allow the car to drive down to the waterfall. VND150,000 did the trick and we were soon driving down a dusty road passing sweaty walkers along the way. That we could take the car down was a blessing for us.
Pongour Waterfall, Vietnam |
I had read a legend of this Pongour Waterfall. I always love to learn any legends of places I visit so here it is! In ancient times there was a very beautiful girl who, together with her four rhinoceroses, had special powers that she used to protect the people of the villages in her area by doing things such as diverting floodwaters, moving mountains and the like. When she died her long hair formed this Pongour waterfall, creating long sparkling cascades. The rocks at the bottom represent the horns of her rhinoceroses with Pongour being the indigenous word for rhinoceros horn. Nice story, I think.
We then took a walk around the area. There were a few birds chirping and flitting around. Away from the sound of falling water it was quiet and still.
around Pongour waterfall, near Da Lat, Vietnam |
We then took to the road again, heading for the Linh An Pagoda. This road was similar to the last one with a few more houses. Food production was very much in evidence as before although on this road the houses mostly had vegetable gardens from the fence to the front door. In addition, flowers bloomed from earthen pots or hanging baskets. Jacaranda and bougainvillea trees were dropping their petals creating a small carpet of colour on the roadside. We loved seeing this!
Even as we passed through small villages, I noticed that there was no one standing or sitting around doing nothing. That was significant to me as in other countries in this part of the world it's common to see men especially whiling away the day doing nothing.
This female Buddha statue was built in the 1990s and is said to be the tallest one in Vietnam.
The shrine room with its bright red roof tiles is guarded on both sides by a cement dragon.
Linh An Pagoda, Vietnam |
Linh An Pagoda, near Dalat, Vietnam |
Linh An Pagoda |
Linh An Pagoda |
Elephant Waterfall, near Dalat |
a very sad, docile crocodile |
Historic train station and Linh Phuoc Pagoda, Da Lat
It's Spring in Da Lat in March with the highest temperature average of 27C. It felt much hotter than that when we awoke to our sun filled apartment so we were in no hurry to leave the aircon and spent time catching up on emails and creating a list of places we wanted to see. Today, we decided, we would go to the historic train station and take the tourist train to the Linh Phouc Pagoda.
Spring in Da Lat |
Ga Da Lat |
Train timetable to Linh Phouc Pagoda, Dalat |
Tourist train, Dalat |
Horticulture houses, Dalat |
See the sign at the top of this building |
waiting for the train to pass |
Linh Phuoc Pagoda, Da Lat |
Weightloss coffee beans, Da Lat |
Wednesday, April 10, 2024
Dalat - City of Eternal Spring
Da Lat supermarket fresh fish |
Tuesday, April 9, 2024
We're in Vietnam! Hello Ho Chi Min!
After a longish flight, standing in line at Immigration desks is not that enjoyable, especially when you choose the slowest moving line, so exiting the Arrivals Hall to see our transport there to greet us was a relief.
We were soon on our way to our hotel and having our first experience of Ho Chi Minh traffic. Motorbikes. Seemingly tens of thousands of them dominating the roads. Get a call while you are riding? No problem. Answer it. Text message? Read it and tap in an answer at the lights. What an income revenue that would be for the Australian police!
Ho Chi Minh scooters |
We were scarcely in the door at the Amanaki Saigon Boutique Hotel when we were welcomed with cool drinks and an assurance that our room was ready for us. Breakfast, we were told, would be available until 10am. Great! It was now almost 7am so we would have time to shower and have a rest. That we did and, after breakfast at 9.30am, we decided to rest again until the afternoon. As the only reason we were in Ho Chi Minh was to accommodate our flights into and out of Vietnam, sightseeing was a low priority. Although March is not the hottest time of the year in this city, with the saturating humidity the high 30s C are just a bit too much for us, despite living in a similar climate.
Refreshed by a four hour sleep we decided to find one of the markets to buy some shorts. Just navigating from the car around the crowded parked motorbikes on the path up to the hotel, I could see that my light coloured, trusty leather lace ups were going to get some rough treatment, so cheap knockabout shoes were needed too.
Standing in the heat outside our hotel I booked my first Grab. These are the Ubers of some Asian countries and you can even get motorbike Grabs in Vietnam where the motorbike is King of the Road. Within two minutes we were on our way to Saigon Square, one of the famous markets.
Saigon Square market |
Hot and getting tired now, we decided to go over the road to the more upmarket and airconditioned Saigon Centre. That meant first dodging the guys who wanted to clean our shoes and the women trying to put some type of food into our mouths, getting through the parked motorbikes on the footpath and then crossing the road.
Crossing the road. Yes. Follow someone else or be like a local is the best way to tackle this event, so the travel blogs say. No one else looked like crossing so we were on our own.
Pick your moment to step out, walk steadily without any faltering and the traffic will weave around you, I had read. So, grabbing Sam's arm to keep him with me - he was somewhat bemused by the stream of bikes and cars - I did just that. Off we went across the wide intersection and reached the other side. Success! Elation flowed over me! Now to find some airconditioned cold drinks .
Down to the basement level of Saigon Place we went in search of cool drinks and a snack. We were soon sitting comfortably enjoying French pastries, fresh coconut water and pineapple juice and watching the world eating, drinking and socialising.
Basement Saigon place restaurants and food |
Outside we go in search of a Grab. It's hot. Wearingly hot. I'm thankful for a blogger's tip to have a small cloth to mop up your eyes. A face washer does the trick and I'm pleased I packed several. They are going to be needed.
We Grab back to our hotel and wait until the sun departs and the atmosphere is cooler before going in search of dinner. Night seems to bring everyone out on the street to eat.
We give the bars and pizza shop a miss, looking for Vietnamese food. Kindergarten sized tables and low plastic stools have suddenly appeared and are soon occupied by diners. I can't manage to get down that low so we hesitate and are promptly ushered by the sidewalk cook into the building at the back. It's airconditioned! And has normal, clean tables and chairs. Great!
We get the menu and order Tho Da Lon and Tho Da Nhe. When it is delivered to our table from the street kitchen it is a boiling bowl of soup, a plate of thinly sliced beat and some herbs and spices. We quickly add the meat to the soups, sprinkle the spices and stir.
Tho Da Lon |
We're already enjoying Vietnam. Sleep comes quickly after a long and satisfying day.
Monday, April 1, 2024
Vietnam holiday - getting organised
Vietjet landing in Ho Chi Minh |
Monday, February 26, 2024
Still here!
While it's five years since I posted on this blog, I have continued to read posts by the people I follow. For some reason I am unable to post comments. Maybe if I wake up my own blog the problem will be solved.
Five years. Good times. Sad times. Happy times. Anxious times. Frustrating times. Fun times. Loving times. Thankful times. Family times. Couple times. In other words, living normal times.
"Getting old is not for the faint hearted," is an overused saying. But true, I concede. " I AM NOT OLD. I AM 21 WITH YEARS OF EXPERIENCE," is the sign I picked up on my final trip to New Zealand last year.
That was my fifth trip during 2023. The one when I held my younger brother as he quietly left his life after very many years of terrible health that challenged his will to live. Eventually he decided it was time to leave, so he did just that, after waiting for me to fulfil my promise to come to be with him as he gently let go of his life.
On my penultimate trip to support him through a crisis he had held me and, through tears, had said that I had taken care of him when he was a baby and now, here I was taking care of him at the end of his life. As the eldest of a large family, I was the mother from the fourth child down. Something that, as an adult, was far from my own thoughts but not from his or another sibling's memory. I was just six years older than him.
As the eldest child of a large, unhappy family, I bore a lot of responsibility for taking care of my siblings and was held responsible for any of their behaviours. In the dark times my mantra was " The sun always comes up tomorrow." Now, seven decades later, I realise how powerful holding on to that mantra was. And continues to be so.
So, now after the sun has risen six more times, my husband of fifty seven years and I will embark on the most complex holiday of our lifetime. One month in Vietnam. Complex because we are now both physically challenged and it seems half of our 14 kg packed baggage consists of medicines and emergency snacks. And my walking stick.
I ask myself if I am crazy to take a month long holiday in a country that, according to the travel experts on Trip Advisor, appears to be more challenging to travel around than any other country we've been to in the region. A country where many local tours have an upper age limit of 75 or 80.
I'm not fainthearted, so when the sun comes up in a few days we'll be heading to the airport in an uber, armed with those tricky to get visas, a flexible itinerary which includes an intention to visit four places, each for a week, taking each day as it comes, said medicines and emergency diabetic snacks, travel insurance, and loads of information of private tour/transport providers who will hopefully disregard the upper age limits of advertised tours.
Getting excited for our first major overseas trip since we snuck back into the country the day before the covid borders shut Australia for a very long time.
Hello, Vietnam!