Life's too short to stuff a mushroom. So . . . .: The Pongour Waterfall, the Linh An Pagoda, a cricket appetiser and a memorable restaurant

The drive to Pongour waterfall, 55 km south of Da Lat, was an hour's drive along the same road we had taken from the airport. We then branched off onto a smaller road through a couple of towns and then again onto a narrow road through the countryside. This road had only a few houses and went through banana, coffee plantations, fields of corn, cabbages and tomatoes. This area is very much a food growing bowl. We saw a few bullocks, smaller and browner than those in Sri Lanka but no cows. I'm wondering where they all are considering the fresh milk we bought in Ho Chi Minh was from 'Dalat farms."

The terrain was flat and my maps indicated that we were near the waterfall. There was a river on our left, the Da Nhim river. That must be the source of the waterfall I thought, but where was the "fall" aspect. Ahh !! We came to a decorated, barred gate and an attendant quickly appeared as apparently we had to buy a ticket to allow the car to drive down to the waterfall. VND150,000 did the trick and we were soon driving down a dusty road passing sweaty walkers along the way. That we could take the car down was a blessing for us.

Pongour Waterfall, Vietnam

The waterfall was really something, even in the dry season! With a fall from seven levels, it was also very wide. People were scrambling over the rocks to get into a good position for selfies. Not being agile enough to attempt to get closer, I planted my feet firmly on a big rock and took a few photos. Impressive as it is today, I can imagine how it will look with a bit of rain. The whole area would be covered and no one would be able to swim in the pools, as people are doing today.

I had read a legend of this Pongour Waterfall. I always love to learn any legends of places I visit so here it is! In ancient times there was a very beautiful girl who, together with her four rhinoceroses, had special powers that she used to protect the people of the villages in her area by doing things such as diverting floodwaters, moving mountains and the like. When she died her long hair formed this Pongour waterfall, creating long sparkling cascades. The rocks at the bottom represent the horns of her rhinoceroses with Pongour being the indigenous word for rhinoceros horn. Nice story, I think.

We then took a walk around the area. There were a few birds chirping and flitting around. Away from the sound of falling water it was quiet and still.

around Pongour waterfall, near Da Lat, Vietnam

We then took to the road again, heading for the Linh An Pagoda. This road was similar to the last one with a few more houses. Food production was very much in evidence as before although on this road the houses mostly had vegetable gardens from the fence to the front door. In addition, flowers bloomed from earthen pots or hanging baskets. Jacaranda and bougainvillea trees were dropping their petals creating a small carpet of colour on the roadside. We loved seeing this!

Even as we passed through small villages, I noticed that there was no one standing or sitting around doing nothing. That was significant to me as in other countries in this part of the world it's common to see men especially whiling away the day doing nothing.

Soon we left the flat ground and began climbing steadily up the gentle hills. In the far distance I noticed a tall shiny, white structure standing on the top of the hill dominating the landscape. As we got nearer it revealed itself as the Buddha statue at the Linh An Pagoda.

This female Buddha statue was built in the 1990s and is said to be the tallest one in Vietnam.

Linh An Pagoda, Vietnam

The shrine room with its bright red roof tiles is guarded on both sides by a cement dragon.

Linh An Pagoda, Vietnam

There were few people around so I removed my shoes and went inside for some moments of contemplation and appreciation of the serene shrine room. We then walked around the grounds of the pagoda enjoying the gardens and sitting down for a while in quiet contemplation in this peaceful place.

Linh An Pagoda, near Dalat, Vietnam

Linh An Pagoda

We then walked around the Lady Buddha - an interesting concept I've not met anywhere else. You can apparently climb up inside this statue and see art work however we did not do this. From the raised base of the statue you can see and hear the famous Elephant Waterfall. It is currently closed to all visitors since an accident there two years ago.

Elephant Waterfall, near Dalat

We had very much enjoyed our visit to the waterfall and Pagoda and decided to return to Dalat, now just thirty kilometres away. We have four more days here and can take things at a leisurely pace so back in the car we went.

We hadn't gone far - into a small town - when the driver suddenly pulled up and parked outside a small, dark, shack like building. Come, come, he beckoned. Wondering what this was all about I looked around and saw a dilapidated sign saying "Cricket Farm." I'd heard that there were cricket farms in Dalat so, interest piqued, in we went.

The first thing I saw in the gloomy yard was a huge surprise . . . yes

a very sad, docile crocodile

This disgusted me. It made no move as we walked through to an even gloomier shed. The only explanation I can think to explain its docility would be that it may have been drugged. I was appalled.

cricket farming

By now, all we wanted to do was to get out of this smelly, fly ridden place but as we ran out a lady appeared with a small basket of brown things, toothpicks and chilli sauce. Cooked crickets. "For you to try," we were told. Sam ran for the door but I thought "Why not. Just one." What with climate change causing food production problems people may need to change their diet so . . . to be open to new foods would be a good idea.

Cricket snack

I had just the one. Warm, sweet and crunchy. Not a new choice of a snack. Of course there was a fee to pay.

A short distance down the road the driver again pulled up and parked the car between the usual pile of scooters and motorbikes. " Lunch," he announced. "Local food." Great idea. I, at least, was hungry after my one cricket appetiser.

Great idea, it was! I have never seen a restaurant like it. After walking through a sparsely furnished space we found ourselves crossing a Japanese type bridge over a free form style pond full of large carp, spouting statues and beautiful flora of many sorts. Then came an amazing dining room, so full of noisy, happy families enjoying the food on overloaded tables. Our driver found us a corner on one of the long tables, brought a server with the menus and then left us to order our lunch. Everything was in Vietnamese, the staff spoke only Vietnamese so we chose by picture. I have never had such tasty spring rolls anywhere else. I can't remember what else we ate. I was too busy looking at the decor of the restaurant - flowers, plants, trees, statues, waterfall . . . simply amazing!