Magul Maha Vihara

After exploring Muhudu Maha Viharaya and hearing the story of the selfless Princess who was cast away to sea, was washed up in a different part of the country and married the King of that area, we moved on to the second site mentioned in the legend. We found the signpost to Magul Maha Vihara easily about seventeen kilometres from Pottuvil along the A4.

The legend has it that the site of Magul Maha Vihara is where the marriage ceremony was conducted and that the King later had a Temple built here to celebrate such an auspicious event. As usual there are alternative explanations as to how the temple came to be here with archaeological evidence quoted however the Castaway Princess Marries the King after appeasing the Gods seems a good one with the legend being very well known in Sri Lanka.

Lotus pond

Magul Maha Vihara is in the Lahugala National Park area where elephants are often seen along the roadside. That feeling that there may be some of those ponderous, yet majestic animals around was with us as we left the car parked under some trees and clambered over large rocks, below which was a bird busy lotus pond, to find the track down to the ruins.

Temple, Magul Maha Vihare

At the height of its glory Magul Maha Vihara is thought to have housed some 12,000 monks, occupied some ten thousand acres and had not only a monastery, stupas and other religious buildings but also a palace. Today some of the ruins have been reclaimed from the jungle, however that jungle is still only a couple of metres away, the trees standing tall and plants growing in the crevices of the brick wall that formerly surrounded the whole area.

Brick wall, Magul Maha vihara

 The worn track led to a flight of ancient steps with this unique moonstone at the foot. Moonstones are a feature of all the ruins and many temples in Sri Lanka but this one is really special. It is the only one in the country that has mahouts on some of the elephants.

Moonstone, Magul Maha Vihara

This ancient stupa had four entrances, each one protected by a pair of guardstones at the foot of the stairs and also guarded by a pair of lions at the raised base. 

Ruins of a Stupa at Magul Maha Vihara, Pottuvil

Magul Maha Vihara

Magul Maha Vihara, Pottuvil

Magul Maha Vihara

The image house had the usual pair of guardstones and baulastrades.

Image house, Magul Maha Vihara

Guardstone

Compared to many of the guardstones I have seen at other such sites in Sri Lanka, I thought that these were less sophisticated in construction. Perhaps they were built at an even earlier time.

Monkeys decorating the wall - Magul Maha Vihara

These monkeys were also in an unsophisticated style.

Magul Maha Vihara

Magul Maha vihara

The limestone Buddha has sadly already lost his head and forearm. If a structure were to be provided to protect this statue from further disintegration it would take away from the mood of this natural environment.

Magul Maha Vihara

We had a very pleasant time wandering around quietly exploring on our own in this special yet often unvisited historical site. There is no set admission fee - just a quiet request for a donation. I do recommend visiting during the week as the weekends are very busy with pilgrims coming from afar to offer their devotions.

Muhudu Maha Viharaya, Arugum Bay, Pottuvil

Sri Lanka has an incredible number of ancient sites to fire one's imagination, even in this formerly tsunami ravaged coast. This morning we visited a place small in size but huge in history, right on the beach that was severely damaged by the sea in December 2004. In fact, we found that the dunes are creeping up, burying the brick ruins under a thick bed of white sand.

Muhudu Maha Viharaya, Pottuvil

As legend has it Muhudu Maha Viharaya is near where, 2000 years ago, the hero daughter of King of Kelaniya in the south was washed ashore with her entourage after she had volunteered herself as a sacrifice to the gods who needed to be appeased for her father's ill deed. He had had a Buddhist monk who displeased him boiled alive in oil. This cruel act angered  the gods so much that they sent huge waves that rushed in and flooded the country. When the sages said that this could be stopped if a princess was sacrificed to the sea the King's daughter, Princess Devi is said to have offered herself as an appeasement to the gods and thereby to save her father and to ensure the safety of the country.

She and her entourage were put in a suitably equipped and decorated boat and cast out to sea. The sea immediately became calm and flood waters quickly receded. The King found himself still the centre of anger, this time from his Queen and citizens who were very angry at the loss of their favourite Princess.

Viharamaha Devi, Arugum Bay

Of course there is a happy ending for the Princess Devi! She and her entourage were finally washed ashore here near Arugum Bay. Not only that, she had the good fortune to land in a wealthy and prosperous kingdom ruled by King Kavantissa. He is said to have been so excited to hear this, from a fisherman who rushed off the beach to alert him to this surprising news, that he had her brought before him in a great procession. When he heard her story and learned of her bravery and loyalty to her father and her country, he decided that these qualities would be an asset for himself and his kingdom and married her. From that time onwards she was named Viharamaha Devi.

Viharamaha Devi, herself a heroine, became the mother of two heroic sons. Dutugemmunu became King of Lanka, fighting off King Elara and building the dagaba at Anuradhapura. He reigned from 161 BC to 137 BC and was succeeded by his brother Saddhatissa after he had disowned his son who, believing him to be a coward rather than a negotiator for peace, sent him women's jewellery.

Muhudu Maha Viharaya, Pottuvil

The temple, partially buried in sand, has a three metre Buddha statue faced by two smaller ones. Legend has it that the smaller ones are the King Kavantissa and Vihara Maha Devi although archeological evidence suggests that it was built in the fifth century AD. Academics believe that the two smaller statues are Bodhisattvas - compassionate enlightened beings who forsake nirvana to remain humans and help others in their human lives.

Muhudu Maha Viharaya, Arugum Bay

Buddha Statue, Muhudu Maha Viharaya, Arugum Bay, Pottuvil

Muhudu Maha Viharaya, Pottuvil

Muhudu Maha Viharaya, Arugum Bay, Pottuvil

A King or a Bodhisvatta, it's a story of courage, good luck and power. 
Great, inspirational stories are plentiful in Lanka!