A visit to Lake Argyle was on the "must do" list for this long trip but Kununurra showed up on my first draft itinerary simply because, at thirty seven kilometres from the State border where we had to leave all fruit, vegetables and honey, it was the only place where we could replace these items.
As I became immersed in researching the town it soon became clear that this would not merely be a shopping stopover. My travel companions were very interested in Kununurra for two reasons. One is a retired engineer who, when our children were young, took them to see hydro power schemes, dams and irrigation systems in every country we visited. Now retired, gardening and home production of a wide variety fruits and vegetables is his passion. The other has recently acquired a hobby farm acreage where he and his family are already developing and interesting mix of cool climate fruits and nuts with poultry, sheep and alpacas to follow. My interest came from viewing the beautiful images of the landscapes of very scenic hills, boab trees, coloured rock formations and the like.
Kununurra was born out of the Ord River Irrigation Area plan that is now irrigation the north east part of the Kimberley and has turned the land from a dust bowl in the dry season to very fertile fruit and vegetable farming. Briefly, this was done by damming the 650km long Ord River forming an artificial lake, Lake Argyle. Kununurra grew as the business centre for this massive project and is now an attractive town with many services, including a TAFE, I noticed. It gained some fame as the near location of the movie Australia, directed by Baz Luhrmann and starring Nicole Kidman.
In contrast to the thousands of kilometres of dry, almost parched land we had travelled through on this trip, Kununurra was so very lush, with water plentiful and clear. Bright skies, vivid colours, kilometres of lines of vegetables kaleidoscoping, swirling as we drove along the almost deserted roads.
One day we decided to follow the irrigation canal as far as it extended only to turn back way past the point shown on google earth as the end. Maybe the road, minus service stations, might end up back in the Northern Territory!
On our left, the irrigation canal brought water to the crops.
On another day we ambled around the town visiting the tourist locations. First stop was Oria Orchards on Packsaddle Road where we saw the biggest papayas we've ever seen. The grower informed us that they were not at all sought after, being just too big for use in the city hotels, his number one customer group. Here, we couldn't resist the chocolate iced banana!
Our next stop was at Zebra Rock Gallery and Cafe. Here we browsed the interesting striped rock pieces, aboriginal dot paintings and curios.
You can enjoy your afternoon tea or lunch in the picture perfect outdoors and then take a short stroll to the banks of the River Ord.
Many people feed the catfish they are a thick, vigorous, seething mass at your feet.
[If you are suitably equipped, fit and self sufficient you can have an adventure bush camping at Zebra Rock Mines. We couldn't manage that so it's on my list for another life!]
Another interesting place was the Sandalwood Factory fifteen minutes down the road from the town. Here we watched an informative video about the growing of the trees and production of the distinctive perfumes and oils. This is a truly lucrative business with few places in the world being able to sustain trees and the demand for sandalwood oil being so high. Just down the road we passed a part of the sandalwood plantation however visitors there were not welcome. Pity. I would hve liked to take a close look at these trees that produce such an appealing aroma.
Another lovely spot was at Ivanhoe Crossing. This was closed and a few solitary people were fishing close to the water despite the crocodile warning signs.
Next stop is Lake Argyle!
As I became immersed in researching the town it soon became clear that this would not merely be a shopping stopover. My travel companions were very interested in Kununurra for two reasons. One is a retired engineer who, when our children were young, took them to see hydro power schemes, dams and irrigation systems in every country we visited. Now retired, gardening and home production of a wide variety fruits and vegetables is his passion. The other has recently acquired a hobby farm acreage where he and his family are already developing and interesting mix of cool climate fruits and nuts with poultry, sheep and alpacas to follow. My interest came from viewing the beautiful images of the landscapes of very scenic hills, boab trees, coloured rock formations and the like.
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| Ord River at Kununurra |
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| Boab Tree |
One day we decided to follow the irrigation canal as far as it extended only to turn back way past the point shown on google earth as the end. Maybe the road, minus service stations, might end up back in the Northern Territory!
On our left, the irrigation canal brought water to the crops.
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| Irrigation canal, East Kimberley |
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| Papayas at Oria Orchards |
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| Papaya farm, Saddleback Road |
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| Zebra Rock Gallery |
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| Zebra Rock Gallery, Kununurra |
Many people feed the catfish they are a thick, vigorous, seething mass at your feet.
[If you are suitably equipped, fit and self sufficient you can have an adventure bush camping at Zebra Rock Mines. We couldn't manage that so it's on my list for another life!]
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| Catfish in the Ord River |
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| Sandalwood trees |
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| Ivanhoe crossing |
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