Lake Argyle

Dam on Lake Argyle, Western Australia

Our arrival at Lake Argyle brought us to the turn back point of our trip and ticked the Number One reason for making this long drive on Sam's List - Lake Argyle. This particular engineering achievement had two other attractions for Sam - the Argyle diamond mine and the  massive irrigation scheme that brought agriculture to this expansive region that could previously be productive only during the short wet months. Our time exploring the agricultural aspect of Kununurra had been most enjoyable for him, satisfying his interest in fruit and timber farming and while he could see the dam and power station here at Lake Argyle, the diamond mine was beyond access! The only way to get to it was to fly and visitors were not permitted anyway. Pity! I would have loved an Argyle diamond from the gift shop! I'd like the one that is worth a million dollars for just one carat.  Ha ha!

Camp site, Lake Argyle

 Before this trip I read all the blogs I could find, gleaming valuable information so here's a little information for those readers doing the same thing. Lake Argyle is a short seventy kilometres from Kununurra on a good road. [ If you are coming from the Northern Territory and not intending to go to Kununurra the turn off is not far from the border.] In the dry [tourist] season the one caravan and camping park there, Lake Argyle Resort, is very busy however you cannot book ahead as the private owner prefers to have a more relaxed first comers get the spots system. I found this out when I phoned to make a booking however we arrived before lunchtime and had no problems securing a very pleasant spacious spot under the trees. By evening the only sites were the non powered camping ones at the back of the ground - very nice they were though. The setting for this caravan park, which also has several book-well-ahead cabins and motels, is stunning!

Lake Argyle Resort infinity pool

The view from the pool was the best part! It was icy!

Dam wall, Ord River

Having come to see the mighty lake and dam we were soon driving over the dam wall. The road takes you first to a couple of look outs then past the lower outlet and along the river to a very pleasant picnic area. Here we had lunch watched by some crocs in the river and birds in the trees.

Ord River, downstream from the dam

 [Spot the croc! ]

 Then it was back past the camp to the Durack Homestead for a history lesson. The first European explorer in the area was one Alexander Forrest whose glowing reports after his 1879 excursion to the area of fertile lands led to  three families, the Duracks, Buchanans and Osmonds being able to secure millions of acres to establish their cattle empires. The Durack homestead is now a museum after being dismantled before the flooding and reconstructed exactly as originally built, albeit minus the out buildings such as kitchen, stables, sheds and servant's [ aboriginal servants] rooms. I know that I look at history through the lens of today's [ or my personal] values but I just felt so sad that firstly the Aboriginal owners were treated as being of no consequence, then had to serve the white masters before finally having their country flooded. The local people here are the Mirriwoong Gajerrong people and as I walked around looking at the exhibits and read of the great feats of the Duracks in driving cattle some five thousand miles over three years all I could feel was sorrow that their country was so altered, their cultural sites and graves lost, and their lives imposed upon by strangers confidently grabbing what they wanted.

Male Bower Bird

So the best thing for me at the Durack family museum was the bower bird. And even he had been named after one of the Durack men. The male bower bird collects the  white pebbles and other colourful objects to attract a mate. After mating she leaves him and his bower and takes off to nest alone.

Estuarine Crocodile, Lake Argyle

The next day we went on a lunch cruise to enjoy the lake from water level. Very pleasant it was, especially the lunch time dip in the lake, buoyed by a noodle, wine glass in hand with 35,000 fresh water crocodiles for company somewhere in the water. That last piece of information was conveyed to us once we were back on the boat. No worries, we were told. Freshies are shy crocs and give no trouble. Well, the one above looked not at all happy to see us out on the water in a boat. Lunch was barbequed catfish  now rebranded as Silver Cobbler and selling for five times the price as "Catfish." It had a sweet taste and firm texture - a winner with us!

Cormorants, Lake Argyle

I had previously seen only one pair rock wallabies -  black ones at Lake Burrinjuck, New South Wales so it was exciting to not only catch a glimpse of these small ones but to be able to watch them scrabble in the rocks for food.

Rock Wallabies, Lake Argyle.

After we returned from our cruise I was relaxing, coffee cup in hand when I heard a helicopter landing. Suddenly I found myself on my feet heading to the office to see if I could book a flight right then and there! This would be a first for me as I have been afraid to get on a helicopter. Yes. I could take a sunset flight fifty minutes from now. I handed over my money before I could change my mind and went back to our camp to give the news to my horrified husband. Had I known that the helicopter was wide open - no doors - I might not have been so daring!

Lake Argyle

I later learned that the pilot thought I was freaked out because I gave little response to his attempts at conversation, giving information about this great man made lake that covers 1000 square kilometres and when full holds as much water as seven Sydney Harbours. Yes. I was listening. In fact I was transfixed by the sights I saw below and beyond! Countless islands, formerly the tops of mountains, steep hillsides their colours changing even in a couple of minutes as the sun slid down in the sky.

Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle

Too soon we were coming back to land.

Ord River, below the Lake Argyle Dam

This was my last glimpse of the Ord as it moved steadily towards the Cambridge Gulf at Wyndham before ending its 320 km path to the Timor Sea.

A tip to those researching their upcoming trip: If you are not able or interested in fishing, boating or walking in the area you could consider taking the morning river cruise from Kununurra to Lake Argyle followed by the lunchtime lake cruise. A bus takes those who do that back to Kununurra. We met several people who took helicopter flights from Kununurra over Lake Argyle.

Kununurra, Northern Territory

A visit to Lake Argyle was on the "must do" list for this long trip but Kununurra showed up on my first draft itinerary simply because, at thirty seven kilometres from the State border where we had to leave all fruit, vegetables and honey, it was the only place where we could replace these items. 

As I became immersed in researching the town it soon became clear that this would not merely be a shopping stopover. My travel companions were very interested in Kununurra for two reasons. One is a retired engineer who, when our children were young, took them to see hydro power schemes, dams and irrigation systems in every country we visited. Now retired, gardening and home production of a wide variety fruits and vegetables is his passion. The other has recently acquired a hobby farm acreage where he and his family are already developing and interesting mix of cool climate fruits and nuts with poultry, sheep and alpacas to follow. My interest came from viewing the beautiful images of the landscapes of very scenic hills, boab trees, coloured rock formations and the like.

Ord River at Kununurra

 Kununurra was born out of the Ord River Irrigation Area plan that is now irrigation the north east part of the Kimberley and has turned the land from a dust bowl in the dry season to very fertile fruit and vegetable farming. Briefly, this was done by damming the 650km long Ord River forming an artificial lake, Lake Argyle. Kununurra grew as the business centre for this massive project and is now an attractive town with many services, including a TAFE, I noticed. It gained some fame as the near location of the movie Australia, directed by Baz Luhrmann and starring Nicole Kidman.

Boab Tree

 In contrast to the thousands of kilometres of dry, almost parched land we had travelled through on this trip, Kununurra was so very lush, with water plentiful and clear. Bright skies, vivid colours, kilometres of lines of vegetables kaleidoscoping, swirling as we drove along the almost deserted roads.

One day we decided to follow the irrigation canal as far as it extended only to turn back way past the point shown on google earth as the end. Maybe the road, minus service stations, might end up back in the Northern Territory!

On our left, the irrigation canal brought water to the crops. 

Irrigation canal, East Kimberley

On another day we ambled around the town visiting the tourist locations. First stop was Oria Orchards on Packsaddle Road where we saw the biggest papayas we've ever seen. The grower informed us that they were not at all sought after, being just too big for use in the city hotels, his number one customer group. Here, we couldn't resist the chocolate iced banana!

Papayas at Oria Orchards

Papaya farm, Saddleback Road

 Our next stop was at Zebra Rock Gallery and Cafe. Here we browsed the interesting striped rock pieces, aboriginal dot paintings and curios.

Zebra Rock Gallery

You can enjoy your afternoon tea or lunch in the picture perfect outdoors and then take a short stroll to the banks of the River Ord. 

Zebra Rock Gallery, Kununurra

Many people feed the catfish they are a thick, vigorous, seething mass at your feet.
[If you are suitably equipped, fit and self sufficient you can have an adventure bush camping at Zebra Rock Mines. We couldn't manage that so it's on my list for another life!]

Catfish in the Ord River

Another interesting place was the Sandalwood Factory fifteen minutes down the road from the town. Here we watched an informative video about the growing of the trees and production of the distinctive perfumes and oils. This is a truly lucrative business with few places in the world being able to sustain trees and the demand for sandalwood oil being so high. Just down the road we passed a part of the sandalwood plantation however visitors there were not welcome. Pity. I would hve liked to take a close look at these trees that produce such an appealing aroma.

Sandalwood trees

Another lovely spot was at Ivanhoe Crossing. This was closed and a few solitary people were fishing close to the water despite the crocodile warning signs.

Ivanhoe crossing

Next stop is Lake Argyle!