Pearl of the East, Serendib, Taprobane, Sri Lanka. Home.

The chattering of monkeys and sounds of bird call broke through the last moments of my sleep. With eyes half open, I realised that this was the last morning for many months, maybe even a year, that I would awake to the beauty of early morning at Olu Ella. Out I went to the balcony where I watched the slow sun slide through the trees and flash on the white head feathers of fantails as they darted among branches. Other birds called their friends to get moving, to begin their day long food search. 

Olu Ella Inn balcony

There was no need to search for food on my part! I could hear the sounds of people below me as they began preparations for our breakfast. As it was our last breakfast we were sure to be presented with an elaborate one! I decided to go down to meet the day so, after "Good Morning! "to everyone, I went down the steps to the river below. There I sat beside the calm swimming hole watching the yellow bulbuls darting to pick off the insects caught in the new sunlight. I love to sit here, feet in the quiet waters, watching the flowing water find its way through the huge rocks and becoming a fierce rush of white water just a few metres downstream. 

I knew that today this beautiful place would be enjoyed by city dwellers making a weekend escape from the pollution of Colombo by visiting our guesthouse -home to play in the river, enjoying the cool, refreshing water before sampling the traditionally cooked dishes that have earned the guesthouse many recommendations.  

Visitors enjoying the We Oya at Olu Ella Ella Inn

I decided to leave the river today for our visitors to enjoy and made plans to spend the day with a slow trip down the road stopping to take photos at my favourite points. Usually, when we leave home we are moving to a timetable and there's no time to stop for photos. Today I would go alone and stop wherever I pleased! A phone call confirmed that a tuk tuk was available so, after breakfast of freshly made egg hoppers - always my favourite Sri Lankan breakfast - I took my camera and walked down our path to the bridge.

Our Sri Lankan home. Olu Ella Inn

Set among the tea and rubber trees our home is in a hill side village where tea and rubber, together with cardamons and cloves in season, are the income earners for the villagers.

Tea and Ribber trees

Then it was a practiced walk over the high bridge . . .

Bridge over We Oya, at Dombepola

. . . with a pause to take a photo looking downstream . . .

Down stream We Oya from Dombepola bridge

and upstream.

upstream We Oya, Dombepola bridge and after heavy rain.

About five hundred metres along the road is Olu Ella Falls, the fifth highest waterfall in Sri Lanka. I have posted previously about this waterfall.

Olu Ella Falls, wet season

Olu Ella Falls, dry season

My tuk tuk was waiting! The young driver had been told that I wanted to take photos so, after only my first request to stop, he took to stopping wherever he thought a photo should be taken. He really loved his part of the world and stopped exactly where I planned!

Travel by tuk tuk

For the most part, the road is little more than one way only. We are all used to this and there's absolutely no road rage when there are delays with vehicles needing to back up. Instead people use the opportunity to shout news from passing tuk tuks or buses to friends going the other direction!

Seepoth Road, from Yatiyantota

First time visitors to our guesthouse often remark that just getting to our place is an adventure! They enjoy the drive along the windy road, adventures at every corner, through the tea and rubber plantations and the vistas that greet them at every bend.

Getting the day's tea pick ready for collection

Tea is everywhere. As the people usually have only a couple of acres of tea to farm the daily pick is collected by the local tea factories. How much per kilogram they are paid for these green leaves depends on the season but is usually between fifty to sixty rupees a kilogram. The pickers are paid about ten rupees per kilogram for their work so a lot of tea needs to be picked for anyone to earn a living.

Rubber trees, We Oya

Harvesting both tea and rubber is very much dependent on the weather. If there's rain, harvesting is impossible. In recent years there have been very long periods of drought in this area and the people have suffered accordingly. No harvesting equals no income.

Collecting the latex.

When I made my first trip along this road almost fifty years ago I was shocked to see cows little bigger than big dogs. Coming from New Zealand, this horrified me. Now, with breeding assistance from New Zealand, the cows I meet are very much bigger! And can be somewhat intimidating! This one did not agree to having her photo taken.

This area is in a rain corridor so, even on a day that starts out clear and sunny, clouds can appear and dump a bit of water before petering out and returning the sunshine. The hilltops often sit in front of a haze.

We Oya valley

In the wet season the hills are adorned with many high waterfalls. This year I noted that most had dried up, including some I have never known to do so.

Water falls We Oya

What a beautiful setting for the We Oya Rubber Estate's workers' accommodation!

We Oya Rubber Estate

All too soon it was time to turn around.  A phonecall informed me that the visitors had finished their water fun. My turn now!

I was soon back in the water, fish exploring around my feet looking for something to eat. . .

Asian Open Bill, Sri Lanka

. . . and watching the Asian Open Billed stork feeding from the rocks.

Asian Open Bill, We Oya, Sri Lanka

We Oya, Sri Lanka

What a lovely way to end my time in my Sri Lankan home!

The First part of our Sri Lankan Tour - Olu Ella Inn to Ella ,with a train trip Nanu Oya to Ella

Not only Sue rose at dawn today! Bags were packed last night as we needed to make an early start so that we could meet the train at Nawalapitiya, destination for the day being Ella. After a quick breakfast we were soon driving down the mountain, enjoying the sight of peaks obscured by early morning mist. With little traffic on the road we had a pleasant drive and made such good time to Nawalapitiya that there would have been a long wait for the train. 

The train journey from Nanu Oya is rated as the best in the country so it is always problematic to get a seat, hence our idea to board it at an earlier stop. Nawalapitiya is a busy commercial town with little to offer passing tourists, not even a clean toilet, however we found a small bakery where we were able to top up our breakfast. We then decided to continue to Nanu Oya and take our chances on the seat issue.

First two stages of our tour- Part two coming up soon

A short time later we came to Pussellawa where, thankfully, there was a clean bathroom courtesy of our driver's car insurance company. Apparently this company, a popular one, has built such conveniences in various places so if you are in Sri Lanka and in such need, ask your driver about his insurance company - you may find relief!

From Pussellawa the road gradually climbs higher until U bends are many and views excellent.

Ramboda Falls, Sri Lanka

 Here's a long distance shot so that you can see the surrounding hills . . .

Ramboda Falls, Sri Lanka

. . . and a close up to get an idea of the force of the water. After this point the road climbed very steeply to Nuwara Eliya.

Ramboda Falls area, Sri Lanka

When we fly over the country we see all these lakes and reservoirs and try to pin point their locations. This one is the Kotmale Reservoir.

Tea Estate

Many centuries ago Sri Lanka was famous for its spices, especially cinnamon, cardamon, cloves. As a small child, I remember reading about the Arab spice trade routes and how spices were used to preserve food prior to refrigeration and canning. Sri Lanka became known as Pearl of the East partly due to its spice trade, if my memory of childhood reading is correct. Nowadays it is famous for its tea. 

Tea, however, was introduced to Sri Lanka from China early in the nineteenth century but as a specimen in the Botanical Gardens. At that time, Sri Lanka had a thriving coffee economy however a deadly fungus wiped out the crop and so, tea became a cash crop instead.  With an early coffee history it is strange that until recently it was impossible to get a drinkable cup of coffee anywhere on the island with a strong, bitter brew, thick with grains served to those who hadn't yet learned to choose tea.

Tea Leaves, just plucked

Tea is a type of camellia - camellia sinensis - and I think of that when trying to encourage my camellias to grow in our burning summers. In Sri Lanka tea estates take up about 4% of the land. There are the famous estates and brands and there are also smaller tea plantations where the picked tea from the tea is collected and taken to a local tea factory for processing.

Tea flower, camellia sinensis

Tea growing needs high humidity, a cool climate and high rainfall and the difference in these conditions has a lot to do with the taste, aroma and strength of the product. The Central Highlands of Sri Lanka have ideal conditions and this is where the most estates are located. There are three main types of tea grown - the black variety with its citrus evoking aroma, the more pungent, richer flavoured green tea and the expensive and harder to get white tea. White tea is more labour intensive as the leaves are hand rolled and sun dried.

Tea growing

Tea growing in Sri Lanka has always been labour intensive and, as the Sinhalese people were reluctant to do such menial work, the British planters brought Tamil women from India. The women start work early, picking two leaves and a bud off and tossing them into a basket or bag tied on their heads behind them. The tea bushes are kept to waist height and are grown on contours on hills to allow for access and drainage.

Picking tea

We stopped to buy some tea for friends at Glenloch Tea Factory near Katukithula and took advantage of the invitation to down a bowl of potato soup that is provided for the many drivers who bring clients such as ourselves. Very nice it was too!

Lucky was offered some jaggery one of the staff had made for sale and he quickly accepted the offer. Jaggery is unrefined sugar made from the sap of the kitul palm without the separation of the molasses and crystals. This piece was especially pleasing - like a soft light fudge that melted effortlessly the minute it made it to your mouth.

After this pleasant break we continued to Nuwaru Eliya where I ran into a bakery to stock up on short eats for the three hour train ride from Nanu Oya to Ella. The six km from Nuwaru Eliya were covered slowly as the road had been ripped up with a new construction about to be started so time needs to be allowed for this if you plan to catch the train. I guess it may be ready in a year or two.

After purchasing our tickets - about Rs 200 each for Second Class, we joined the other waiting passengers - mostly tourists - on the platform.

Nanu Oya Station

Soon the train arrived and that was when the fun began!

Ever mindful of how to survive when boarding public transport in Sri Lanka, I positioned myself ready to haul myself up into the train assertively yet as politely as possible. The trouble was that there were very many people exiting at this station and one poor, young mother holding a baby less than a year old almost fell when trying to turn to get a foot hold on the narrow steps hidden under the side of the carriage. I released my hold on the hand rail and caught , yes caught the baby and she managed to get down. As this was happening I was being pushed and shoved from behind as Sri Lankan people sought to get on  and grab the seats. At the same time, the small foyer area was blocked with a group of happy young Sri Lankan men playing drums while singing and swaying as they crooned the local hit songs. 

Happy Days, I thought as I too, moved assertively scanning for vacant seats on the right side of the coach, found one and sank down hurrying Sue in beside me. I then looked for Sam to see how he was faring in the seat scrum. He was looking confused but then I spotted a seat behind me on the other side of the train and pushed him, like the musical chair game into it. Just in time! We were then confronted by a young Sri Lankan mother, perhaps in her thirties and her eight year old son, furious that Sam had taken her son's seat and demanding that he stand up. With some encouragement from me, Sam held his seat while she berated him in Sinhalese for making her son stand. Whereupon Sam offered to move slightly so that her son could perch between the two of them and, as she kept up her tirade he gave her a lecture on her lack of respect for his age - wrong side of seventy. Eventually she was silenced, only to leave the train two stops later.

Train between Nanu Oya and Ella

The journey between Nanu Oya and Ella takes three hours. During the first half the best views are from the right hand side and they are glorious views, tinged with a full range of green shades, into blues and purples.

From the Nanu Oya to Ella train

There are a lot of tunnels and, as it was a weekend the train was full of families with children so every time we went through a tunnel they screamed. I was waiting for that thrill to wear off but no such luck!

Food crops

One of the waterfalls from the train

Near Diyatalawa

There were seats aplenty when the train arrived at Ella. Many of the stations along the way had lovely gardens and flower pots on the platforms. This was the area the British in colonial times liked to escape the heat to and this is still reflected in the station buildings, especially at Diyatalawa.

Lucky was at the station to meet us and take us to our guesthouse, Rawana Heights. Well named, as we found out! Our rooms were on the top floor giving a lovely view  - after we had slowly climbed the fifty six steps to reach them!