Katherine Gorge, Northern Territory

After a very pleasant day in Litchfield National Park and a relaxed evening at our camp at the Adelaide River Showgrounds we refueled our van and picked up our journey southwards on the Stuart Highway. This was a very easy drive and we were soon back at Pine River, ready for a comfort stop and morning tea.

Pine Creek Railway Resort

Remembering the very excellent lunch we had enjoyed at the Pine Rivers Railway Resort on our way north we were soon inside appreciating the aircon and very pleasant surroundings.

Barramundi Burger

Crumbed Barramundi

Our next stop was, once again, at Katherine where we refueled and stocked up on groceries. With the benefit of hindsight, we should have stayed here and made a day trip to the Katherine Gorge however we planned to stay three nights in the Nitmiluk camp ground to allow plenty of time to take some of the easier walks and cruise the gorges. This plan was soon abandoned when we were directed into the extremely crowded caravan section where the spaces allocated were mere car parks. Yes. Slightly longer but not at all wider. Officials were constantly making their rounds admonishing those who dared to hang a towel to dry. Even without the three school groups that were camped out in the open in the central grassy area, the ablutions blocks would have been inadequate. At 11pm, after an hour of waiting, we gave up waiting, in the long line which extended well out of the bathroom area, for a shower and went to bed unwashed. When I awoke at 2am feeling hot and uncomfortable I thought that I could have a shower then. Wrong! Teenage girls were occupying the showers, having an enjoyable holiday chat while fixing their hair! They were happy enough to accommodate me when I asked that, if they were not in a hurry, could I please go next for my shower.

This park, minus the peak time crowds, would be a lovely place to stay.

Nitmiluk [ Katherine Gorge]

In the evening we took a three gorge sunset cruise. At one point we had to disembark and walk a well signposted path on the rocks to board a second boat. The process was repeated on the way back. This would be impossible for anyone with mobility issues.

Escarpments Katherine Gorge

The cruise was a very tranquil event. We came across some people taking a dip then, a short distance later, we saw a couple of crocodiles on a sandbank, enjoying the last of the sun. Brave people!

Others were canoeing back to base after what must have been a lovely day exploring the gorges - there are thirteen of them.

Nitmiluk, Katherine Gorge, Northern Territory

small kangaroos at Nitimiluk National Park

After just one night we obtained a refund for two nights and went on our way  back into Katherine.

Litchfield National Park

I can tell you that a small town, with the unlikely name of Humpty Doo, is the place to go if you need some help with unexpected toothache or any medical emergency while you are in the Kakadu area! Although the dentists were completely booked out for several days, concerned staff phoned around the Darwin dentists and soon offered the afflicted traveller two options for appointments later in the afternoon. We took the nearest one since we had not planned on going to Darwin at all and, by lunchtime, we were checking in at Howard Springs Campground on the southern border of Greater Darwin where,  once again, we came across the couple from Geelong, Dave and Willi. Unfortunately for them, their vehicle had a serious problem and they had to wait several days for a part to be brought from Alice Springs. This longer than planned stay was not bothering them too much as it meant that they had more time to explore - by public transport.

With the offending tooth extracted, we left early the next day and began our southward journey, arriving at Adelaide River Showgrounds Camp in the afternoon. This campground had all the facilities we needed, [ we even got to park our caravan under a shade top] a resident caretaker who offered ideas and opinions on what we could see in the area. A polo competition was to be held in Darwin the next week and the opposite side of the showgrounds was lined with huge caravans and horse floats. It was very pleasant to sit in the late afternoon shade, cool drinks in the hand, watching  the competitors practicing on the oval. Once again our distinctive Teardrop caravan brought admirers and provided us with some interesting travel tales and recommendations!

Magnetic Termite Mounds, Litchfield National Park

The next morning we went back up the highway a short distance to Batchelor and then into Litchfield National Park. Many people prefer to spend time here, rather than in Kakadu, and I can see the attraction. Compared to Kakadu, Litchfield is very compact, has mostly easy bitumen roads, several water falls where you can take a dip - once they have been checked and resident crocodiles removed after the wet season. If you are reasonably young, or older but fit, there are several walks that could easily add some lovely lazy days to your stay. As we had one person recovering from dental surgery and another with an inconsiderate knee that didn't like coming down steps or slopes, we settled for a whirlwind drive to sample the attractions. 

Magnetic Termite mound

In Australia "white anting" is used as a verb to describe a person who uses subterfuge and underhand tactics to bring down another person. Recently I heard one of our recent former leaders described in the social media as "the greatest White Anter of all time." I offer no personal evaluation of that comment, but merely report it as an illustration of how white ants feature in our landscape, environmentally and politically!

Actually, the termite is known as a "white ant" because its skin is so thin that you can see through it. This thin skin also means that it is so very sensitive to the sun and, as the region receives a massive rainfall during the summer months each year, these termites need to build their mounds above ground level. Also, in order to capture optimum conditions it builds its mound with a North-South orientation thereby ensuring that one side is always in the shade.

Termite Mounds, Litchfield National Park

My question as to why these termite mounds were called "magnetic" was explained at the Information Board. The mounds are made by the blind worker termites so the scientists tested a theory that they did not use the sun to align the mounds North-South but instead had an inbuilt magnetic compass. To test this theory the scientists, artificially changed the magnetic field and the termites then realigned their mounds.

Florence Falls, Litchfield National Park

Driving around Litchfield National Park is easy with flat stretches alternated with low rolling hills. We were on one of the flat stretches when we came across the sign pointing to Florence Falls. I was somewhat puzzled as there seemed nowhere for water to actually fall, had there been any sign of water. Down the road we went . . . and heard . . .water! To get down to the pool there were a hundred steps. It looked like a lot of fun below!

Wangi Falls, Litchfield National Park

Wangi Falls was far more accessible so we enjoyed a cooling dip before enjoying lunch, watched by many birds of prey.

And the debate Litchfield versus Kakadu?  

Our conclusion is that Litchfield is easily accessible, a lovely place to swim at the base of waterfalls, has some enjoyable walks, excellent camping spots, lots of bird life and is a great place to enjoy the beauty of the landscapes.

Kakadu has all of the above, minus the safe swimming holes, but in addition it has its own unique spirit - the enduring spirit of the First People of Australia. There we met the people and understood how they are owned by their country, duty bound to protect it forever. There we heard the stories from the dreamtime and the relevance today of  lessons illustrated on the walls of the ancient cave dwellings.

From Kakadu we came away, our spirits having been awoken. 
Yes. For us, Kakadu is a truly special place.