Thursday, January 31, 2013

Lake Tyers

On another day we went to Lake Tyers, just a short drive from Lakes Entrance. This was another of my sister's favourite places and she has often stayed there with her family. We took a nostalgic - for her - walk around the place where she had stayed several times. The picture below is what she saw from her accommodation then. Well, that's not quite correct as on one occasion the lake had naturally opened to the sea, its sand bar succumbing to high lake water levels and pressure from the Tasman sea. The last time it did that was in 2009  and the time before that was in 1998. On both these occasions it remained open for about six months during which time the ecosystem gained a beneficial flush and it also enabled fish to move in and out of the lake to spawn.
Lake Tyers, Victoria
The lone bird in my photo below actually had many companions of different kinds however my camera's zoom was totally inadequate.
Lake Tyers and Sand bar, Victoria
My sister's husband has fished many times in this lake and knows it well. It is a small snaky lake, about 16 square kilometres and is bordered by lovely forests. After visiting the Lake Tyers township we then went to the Toorloo Arm 
which is one of the two places where boats can be launched. 

It was a still day with a vibrant blue sky. Not too hot but our feet did enjoy a paddle in the soft water. I was talking when this shot was taken!
Toorloo Arm, Lake Tyers
After a while at the Toorloo Arm we then went back onto the Princes Highway to the Nowa Nowa Arm, the end of the lake. Morning tea was due so we found a delightful cafe by the highway, after which we went in search of Stony Creek several kilomentres towards Lakes Entrance. Again, the sign was hard to pick up however with four pairs of eyes on the lookout for it we found it and drove down a windy dirt road. My brother in law was driving and without warning the car lurched suddenly and stopped. A big goanna had been sitting on the middle of the road and only quick reflexes on the part of the driver had avoided hitting it. We hurriedly exited the car, grabbing cameras. Too late to click a shot! He was scrabbling up a gum tree in a flash of yellow and brown, disappearing across high branches transferring to a tree on the other side of the road.
Goanna
Goanna
The photo above is the closest I could find to the one we saw. Goannas are monitor lizards and 25 of the 30 species live in Australia. Their colourings and diet vary according to where they live but they are all carnivorous. During my teaching career I taught at a school near a lot of bush on the edge of the Greater Brisbane. We had goannas in the playground frequently and when I was on playground duty I had to be on the lookout for them - and also snakes - as they can be aggressive when children get too close swinging their tails which, being weighty can do a lot of damage to a small child. When surrounded, they can mistake a person for a tree and try to make their escape by climbing. Not a good experience for a colleague who had one attempt just that and one that I took careful note of.

After this exciting sighting we continued to the end of the road, arriving at Trestle Bridge. This was built entirely of materials in the area- primarily red ironbark and grey box timber. It is 247 metres long and 20 metres high and was built in 1916 when the train line from Melbourne to Bairnsdale was extended another 97 kilometres to Orbost. Steam trains were used until 1957 after which diesel was used. In 1968 there was a derailment on the bridge with only the engine and guard's van remaining on the track. Damaged by bushfire in 1980 and repaired, the last train crossed it in 1988. So, it has seen some action!
Trestle Bridge, Stony Creek, near Nowa Nowa
After we had eaten our lunch and donated some to the ants that always come to an Australian party, my sister and I left the men chatting and went to explore. 
 The platform of the bridge is becoming overgrown with vegetation, raising memories of ancient ruins I've seen in Cambodia and Sri Lanka that have had this happen. I also wondered how long the red ironbark could hold up and if whoever has some sort of responsibility for it would decide to let the bush take over or maintain it as part of the history of the area.
Trestle Bridge, Stony Creek
That night we had a meal at the famous Waterwheel Tavern in the Lake Tyers town. The Brazillion Steak was enthusiastically eaten while the rest of us enjoyed some white, juicy fish. After that we took a walk on the Ninety Mile beach to watch the sun go down.
These two found a lot to talk about it and talk they did! I had to wait a looong time before they turned around and I could get a picture.

Since returning home I have learned that Lake Tyers, because of its then isolation, was run as an Aboriginal settlement in 1863 by an Anglican missionary John Bulmer. By 1919 it had become Government run and then had Aboriginals from other places shipped in.

Furthermore, the Reserve was then carved up and block of land given to returned servicemen but NOT to Aboriginal returned service men who had their applications denied. Even though most of this this happened well before I was born and these actions would have been considered right with society then, I find it disturbing. The Aboriginal people today still wear this injustice and abuse. Yes. Abuse.
Sunset, Ninety Mile Beach, Lake Tyers
I will, however, finish this post with the lovely scene as the sun goes down on Ninety Mile Beach, Lake Tyers. It's a great memory of an excellent day.

Lakes Entrance

Knowing that we were to stay six days here at Lakes Entrance and that we were being joined by my sister and her husband, we set about establishing a longer term camp than we had done in the past few days. Despite the very small site we managed we managed to create a four area abode with a private kitchen at the back, lounge room and dining room and of course our cosy bedroom. [the van] It's always fun to create a camp, different each time, working with different features of the environment. This one proved to be functional and comfortable when, after each day's sightseeing, the four of us dined and relaxed, chatting and enjoying our time together.

Lakes Entrance is a town of about 5000 people on the Ninety Mile Beach and the edge of the Gippsland Lakes and relies on fishing and tourism for its existence.  My sister has had many lovely family holidays here when her children were young and her accounts of these over the years were part of the reason we chose this part of our country to explore this trip.
Lakes Entrance from Jemmy's Point
The entrance that you can see in the above photo is actually man made although if nature was left to its own devices it would sometimes make its own entrance. [ or exit!] The seven rivers that flow into the lakes bring down a lot of sediment which creates banks, or jetties, in the lakes and raises the level of the water. In the past, when the water levels became very high and the heavy surf of Bass Strait on the other side pushed on the narrow strip, the water would burst through but not always in the same place as before. In 1891 a wall was built to fix an opening and since then it has been kept open by dredging so that fishing boats in particular could get through.

After spending the first day together relaxing and catching up on news we then spent the next one on a wonderful cruise around the lakes. There are several companies providing various kinds of cruise options however my brother in law recommended a three hour afternoon cruise with a family owned company, Lonsdale Cruises, and this proved to be the perfect choice for us. Skipper Tony took us in the smaller of his boats and, with only 35 of a payload possible of 50, we had room to move around comfortably as he gave an often humorous and always informative commentary. We heard about the history of the lake, indigenous use of it, and of course information about the many hundreds of birds we encountered. The indigenous people are the Gunaikurnai and they would have never been hungry with all the birds and fish to hunt.
Gippsland Lakes
Our thirty kilometre trip took us around Lake King, Metung, Rotamah Island, Chinaman's Creek as well as some other places I've now forgotten and finally out to the Entrance where we saw a couple of seals playing [ or feeding?] in the swells rolling in from Bass Strait. During the trip a delicious smell emanated from the lower part of the boat and soon after that Tony's wife, Melinda, came around with a plate of huge scones - strawberry ones! Couldn't resist one, even knowing that I should not indulge in the enticing strawberry cream topping. Well, Never mind. I'm on holiday, so concentrate of calories another time, I thought at the time but suffering regret later.
East Gippsland Lakes
The view above gives an idea of the expanse of the lakes which cover 420km square, or 42,000 hectares.
Lakes Entrance Harbour
Fishing boats, Lakes Entrance
We saw hundreds of these Black Swans either resting on the sand banks or feeding.
Black Swan
Gippsland Lakes
Black Cormorant,  Pelicans
 As we gently rounded a point and came across this yacht my imagination gave way to pirate ships hiding in coves - a remnant of my reading material during childhood!
In the same area I was interested to see this push - paddle canoe.
There are a number of holiday homes hidden around the lakes some of which can be reached by road while others require a boat. At one little cove we found several of these cute works of art created to claim the swimming spot for the holiday residents.
Shrike ?
I have been searching to get a definite identification of this bird we came across. I'm not sure but I think it might be a shrike.

After our lovely afternoon on the Gippsland Lakes we went back to our camp to prepare our dinner - a real Sri Lankan Chicken Curry, Bean Curry and our own special spicy coconut dressed salad. [Yes. I know. Coconut. More calories today.] This, we hoped, would erase the disappointment of our 45th Wedding Anniversary dinner at a local Indian restaurant the previous night. The aromas during cooking soon had our neighbours on both sides come over to see what was cooking. So sorry, we have cooked for only four! The taste? Perfect!  

A satisfying end to a most enjoyable day.

Monday, January 28, 2013

Snowy River

We stayed in an apartment in Eden so that Sam could feel more comfortable after injuring his back while we were in Batemans Bay so we were able to make an early start to our day with minimum effort. We soon crossed the State border into Victoria where our first stop was Cann River. Here we noticed the Highway going up to the Snowy Mountains and decided that we must explore that area sometime soon.
Cann River
 Cann River was very quiet with only passing traffic stopping to refuel. As with all old towns in Australia the pub was very prominant. Such towns, we found, often had several pubs and, until I realised that in the Old Days the population of these towns was often much higher than today, especially in the gold mining areas, I wondered about the need for so many.

The Snowy River which begins on Australia's highest mountain, Mt Kosciuszko in New South Wales, ends at Marlo where it enters the Bass Strait. The Princes Highway crosses it at Orbost and this is where we stopped for our first view of it.
Snowy River at Orbost
As we walked down to its banks, we startled a flock of these little birds which were in the long grass.
Fairy Wren
We then followed the road to Marlo to see the snowy meet the sea. The Snowy River system is very important to our water and power systems and has three big dams along it causing a massive drop in its flow, down to 1% until a recovery program was implemented.
Snowy meets the Sea at Marlo
On the way back to the Princes Highway we stopped to have lunch on the river bank and Sam was happy to see some decent sized fish swimming around.
On the banks of the Snowy River
Australia's most famous poet A.B "Banjo"Patterson made the Snowy River famous with his ballad, the Man from Snowy River. When, in 1982, a film was made based on his poem and a sequel to it were released the river achieved international attention.

The road between Marlo and Orbost goes through fertile looking land where I saw a real paddock of cattle. In Queensland you see a cow or two in a very large area. These animals viewed me with great suspicion and stood their ground.
Suspicious cows
Another feature of this area at this time was the fields of hay bales. Lovely to see!
Orbost - Marlo Road
it was time to leave the Snowy so we continued on our way to Lakes Entrance where we planned to spend several days.



THE MAN FROM SNOWY RIVER by A.B. "Banjo" Paterson

There was movement at the station, for the word had passed around

That the colt from old Regret had got away,

And had joined the wild bush horses - he was worth a thousand pound,

So all the cracks had gathered to the fray.

All the tried and noted riders from the stations near and far

Had mustered at the homestead overnight,

For the bushmen love hard riding where the wild bush horses are,

And the stockhorse snuffs the battle with delight.



There was Harrison, who made his pile when Pardon won the cup,

The old man with his hair as white as snow;

But few could ride beside him when his blood was fairly up -

He would go wherever horse and man could go.

And Clancy of the Overflow came down to lend a hand,

No better horseman ever held the reins;

For never horse could throw him while the saddle girths would stand,

He learnt to ride while droving on the plains.



And one was there, a stripling on a small and weedy beast,

He was something like a racehorse undersized,

With a touch of Timor pony - three parts thoroughbred at least -

And such as are by mountain horsemen prized.

He was hard and tough and wiry - just the sort that won't say die -

There was courage in his quick impatient tread;

And he bore the badge of gameness in his bright and fiery eye,

And the proud and lofty carriage of his head.



But still so slight and weedy, one would doubt his power to stay,

And the old man said, "That horse will never do

For a long a tiring gallop - lad, you'd better stop away,

Those hills are far too rough for such as you."

So he waited sad and wistful - only Clancy stood his friend -

"I think we ought to let him come," he said;

"I warrant he'll be with us when he's wanted at the end,

For both his horse and he are mountain bred.



"He hails from Snowy River, up by Kosciusko's side,

Where the hills are twice as steep and twice as rough,

Where a horse's hoofs strike firelight from the flint stones every stride,

The man that holds his own is good enough.

And the Snowy River riders on the mountains make their home,

Where the river runs those giant hills between;

I have seen full many horsemen since I first commenced to roam,

But nowhere yet such horsemen have I seen."



So he went - they found the horses by the big mimosa clump -

They raced away towards the mountain's brow,

And the old man gave his orders, "Boys, go at them from the jump,

No use to try for fancy riding now.

And, Clancy, you must wheel them, try and wheel them to the right.

Ride boldly, lad, and never fear the spills,

For never yet was rider that could keep the mob in sight,

If once they gain the shelter of those hills."



So Clancy rode to wheel them - he was racing on the wing

Where the best and boldest riders take their place,

And he raced his stockhorse past them, and he made the ranges ring

With the stockwhip, as he met them face to face.

Then they halted for a moment, while he swung the dreaded lash,

But they saw their well-loved mountain full in view,

And they charged beneath the stockwhip with a sharp and sudden dash,

And off into the mountain scrub they flew.



Then fast the horsemen followed, where the gorges deep and black

Resounded to the thunder of their tread,

And the stockwhips woke the echoes, and they fiercely answered back

From cliffs and crags that beetled overhead.

And upward, ever upward, the wild horses held their way,

Where mountain ash and kurrajong grew wide;

And the old man muttered fiercely, "We may bid the mob good day,

No man can hold them down the other side."



When they reached the mountain's summit, even Clancy took a pull,

It well might make the boldest hold their breath,

The wild hop scrub grew thickly, and the hidden ground was full

Of wombat holes, and any slip was death.

But the man from Snowy River let the pony have his head,

And he swung his stockwhip round and gave a cheer,

And he raced him down the mountain like a torrent down its bed,

While the others stood and watched in very fear.



He sent the flint stones flying, but the pony kept his feet,

He cleared the fallen timber in his stride,

And the man from Snowy River never shifted in his seat -

It was grand to see that mountain horseman ride.

Through the stringybarks and saplings, on the rough and broken ground,

Down the hillside at a racing pace he went;

And he never drew the bridle till he landed safe and sound,

At the bottom of that terrible descent.



He was right among the horses as they climbed the further hill,

And the watchers on the mountain standing mute,

Saw him ply the stockwhip fiercely, he was right among them still,

As he raced across the clearing in pursuit.

Then they lost him for a moment, where two mountain gullies met

In the ranges, but a final glimpse reveals

On a dim and distant hillside the wild horses racing yet,

With the man from Snowy River at their heels.



And he ran them single-handed till their sides were white with foam.

He followed like a bloodhound on their track,

Till they halted cowed and beaten, then he turned their heads for home,

And alone and unassisted brought them back.

But his hardy mountain pony he could scarcely raise a trot,

He was blood from hip to shoulder from the spur;

But his pluck was still undaunted, and his courage fiery hot,

For never yet was mountain horse a cur.



And down by Kosciusko, where the pine-clad ridges raise

Their torn and rugged battlements on high,

Where the air is clear as crystal, and the white stars fairly blaze

At midnight in the cold and frosty sky,

And where around The Overflow the reed beds sweep and sway

To the breezes, and the rolling plains are wide,

The man from Snowy River is a household word today,

And the stockmen tell the story of his ride.




Saturday, January 26, 2013

Batemans Bay to Eden

Leaving Batemans Bay we elected to take the scenic route along the coast instead of the Princes Highway passing through Catalina, Batehaven, Denhams Beach and Rosedale. This was a lovely drive and we wished that we had several months so that we could spend time in the lovely little towns and villages along the way. Should venture this way again, something entirely possible,  we would choose to stay probably at Rosehill. I was surprised to see all the cheese making that goes on in this area and in future I will pay more attention to the origin of any cheese that I may buy. Further down the track we passed through Bodalla and Bega, names that scream, "Cheese!"

This coast road took us to the Moruya River and rejoined the Princes Highway at the bridge into Moruya town. I like to know what names mean and Moruya means "home of the black swan".
Moruya River
Morning tea was due so, noticing  parking plot on the left as we came off the bridge, I swung left and parked the car beside this statue.
Michael Weymouth, Rugby League, Moruya
Michael Weymouth is a home grown hero having played all levels of Rugby League. By all reports he is a thoroughly nice guy who plays a big part in the community. His statue was done in bronze by Terry Miller and was unveiled just about a year ago. You can find it outside the community swimming pool which is beside the river.

Having introduced ourselves to Michael Weymouth we scanned for a cafe . . .  and located a sign across the car park on the next street. What luck! If you are ever in Moruya try the scrumptious and healthy fruit toast or choose from a great range of other breakfast and lunchtime menu items at the Moruya Health Foods and Cafe, 11 Church Street, Moruya. You'll be happy you did! We had to restrain ourselves from having seconds!

From Moruya we continued on the Princes Highway driving through forests until we eventually rounded a corner and, to our surprise, were struck with a gorgeous sight - the Wagonga Inlet at Narooma! How very appropriate it is that apparently Narooma means "clear, blue water" in the local Aboriginal language. I'm so pleased that it wasn't changed to some anglicised name.
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Wagonga Inlet, Narooma
We hadn't planned to stop here however . . . how could I resist parking the van under the huge trees of the park and going for a walk to enjoy the vibrant colours?
Wagonga Inlet
Wagonga Inlet, Narooma
 The bridge over the inlet was another of the centre uplift type, In the late 1880s Narooma was the port for the area and prior to the bridge being built - it was finished in 1931 - punts were used to ferry goods and people across. Of course, at that time the postal service used horseback riders and coaches so in order for the post to continue on its way, the postal rider crossed over on the punt with his horse swimming behind. How we take easy access to places for granted!

Continuing on our way, we left the Princes Highway just past the historic town of Tilba, again taking the scenic coastal route. It was now a long time since our memorable morning tea at Moruya and we planned to stop at Wallaga Lake for lunch.
Wallaga Lake, New South Wales
It had been so still and lovely at our Narooma stop but I was aware, as I was driving, that the van was being buffeted by occasional wind gusts. I was, however, totally surprised at the strength of the wind as we set out our lunch on one of the picnic tables, especially so when one blast blew away two melamine picnic plates. My surprise turned to astonishment when another even stronger blast sent an almost full 500g margarine container spinning off the table, down the bank and into the lake!
Wallaga Lake
Undefeated by the wind, we enjoyed our lunch watching the water birds on the lake. Oyster catchers, plovers, cormorants, seagulls, pelicans and black swans mostly sat out on a sandbank just too far out for me to get a good photo.
Water Birds, Wallaga Lake
Lunch over, we went on our windy way passing through Bermagui, Thathra and pretty Merimbula before arriving at Eden, our destination today. Tomorrow we will cross the State border into Victoria!