Melaka, a UNESCO Heritage City

Jonker Walk, River end

It's easy to see all that compact Melaka has to offer by foot. So walk, we did! The streets are very narrow but, as the traffic cannot speed, you can easily hop into the porch of a building should you feel the need. We found it a very relaxed city with people ready and happy to have a leisurely chat as they sold you a coconut bun, banana or a cool drink.

The unique red of the Dutch constructed Red Square, also known as Dutch Square, shone in the early morning sun.This Square was the centre of the Dutch administration with the building to the left of Christ Church being their administration offices. It later became a Post Office until finally, a Youth Museum. The  other building is Stadhuys - translated as "Town Hall" but was actually the residence of the Dutch Governor and his Deputy. The Clock Tower came about thanks to one Tan Beng Swee, an influential benefactor and businessman while the Fountain, built in 1901, commemorated Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. Interesting that the Dutch architecture and construction styles were kept!

Dutch Square

When the Dutch captured the city from the Portuguese in January 1641 they went on a rampage destroying, among other buildings, the Catholic Churches with the exception of the one standing high on what is now known as St Paul's Hill. This they used until they built the present Christ Church which was completed in 1753 after ten years construction time. It is a rectangular building of red bricks and traditional Dutch tiles. [ I saw many buildings with these tiled roofs around the city,]
When the British ousted the Dutch the church was re consecrated, this time, of course,  as an Anglican church. It houses many records of the Dutch occupation of Melaka as well as silver vessels and so on. Interestingly it has had Chaplains from several countries including Sri Lanka and Australia until the 1990s since when Malaysians have been appointed.

Christ Church, Melaka

The thick walls ensured that it was cool inside and although churches hold little interest for me usually, this one was different. My eyes were drawn to the many stone carved plaques around the walls and my interest heightened when I read the inscriptions. It would seem that if a man reached his late thirties or a woman her mid twenties, they were doing well.

One such plaque stood out for me and not only because Mary Betty died at childbirth quite young by today's standards. At her age, it was very likely that this was not her first pregnancy so it was very likely that she may have had other surviving children. The final lines indicate suitable attributes in a wife. Amiable and affectionate!

As photographs were not permitted I copied the inscription to sharpen my memory.

Beneath this stone is intered

 [ with her stillborn infant]

 the remains of

 Mrs Mary Betty who departed this life

Sept 20th 1800, aged 30 years.

Her difconfolate Hufband

has caufed this stone to be placed here

as a fmall mark of his regard

for an amiable and affectionate wife.

Tourist market in Dutch Square

As it was early morning tourist were a bit thin on the ground so these cyclos - are they called "beca"? - were waiting for business. Delightfully and colourfully decorated we saw them ambling around the city while those who preferred not to walk in the heat explored the side streets.

Rickshaws waiting for the day to begin

On our last day I took another walk, this time alone, around Red Square, through the Stadhuys and up to St Paul's Hill passing this old bulldozer outside the Museum. I photographed it for my grandson who is very interested and knowledgeable about machinery. Its working days were pre 1945 when it was used to make pathways in the rubber plantations. I then continued up the path to St Paul's Hill.

Small Bulldozer, outside the Studhuys Museum

St Paul's Church was built in 1521 as a single storey chapel. It had a strong connection to St Francis Xavier as he and his followers established a school there and added a second storey and also a belfry which was added in 1590. The burial vault was built a couple of years later to accommodate the important and powerful personages after their death.

St Francis and St Pauls Church on the Hill, Melaka

St Francis used St Paul''s a a base for his missionary work in Japan and China and, after he died in China in 1552, his body was disinterred and temporarily buried at St Pauls in 1553 before being then sent to Goa. His statue was erected in 1952 to commemorate the 400th Anniversary of his time in Melaka and it seems that a day after this commemoration a huge tree fell on it, breaking off his right arm. History records that in 1614, his right forearm was detached from his skeleton as a relic. Spooky!

Belfry Tower, St Pauls church ruins, Melaka

Wandering around these ruins I contemplated the nano second that our lives really are and how little will remain soon after we have gone. Even in my lifetime there have been so many cultural shifts in beliefs and behaviours - let me add very much for the better in most things - it is impossible to know what will follow, however the history of swings and pendulums with world power bases perhaps offer some possible clues.

Ruins of St Pauls Church, Malacca

St Pauls Church, Melaka, Malacca

As in Christ Church I found the inscriptions on the plaques very interesting. There were many in Portuguese which were unfortunately all Greek to me, as the saying goes.

Plaque, St Paul's Church, Melaka

Plaque, St Pauls Church, Melaka

Once again, a woman has died quite young. These days a woman in Australia can expect live at least double the age of Jane Charlotte. Thankfully, as I am nearing that point, still enjoying life and still have a lot to do!

Tomb, St Pauls Hill cemetery

St Paul''s Hill was a great spot to look down on the city below so I sat on the wall and was still, thinking of all that we had seen learned and enjoyed in this historic city.

From St Paul's Hill, Melaka

Masjid Kampung Kling Mosque

On my way back to our hotel I walked once more down the street that is known locally as Harmony or Temple Street. This is because it is the location of at least three of Malaysia's most significant temples of different religious persuasions.  There is also a Methodist Church not far away, at the triangle near where the Temple and Jonker Streets meet.

Masjid Kampung Kling mosque commanded my attention because its minarets looked more like a traditional pagoda than those of a mosque. This mosque was completed in 1748 and is quite different in style to those I have seen elsewhere in Malaysia. I learned that its style was influenced by the area's connections with Hindu  influences from Sumatra.

Minaret of Masjid Kampung Kling Mosque, Melaka

The Sri Poyyatha Vinayaga Moorthy Temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Malaysia. It was built in the 1780s and is dedicated to Lord Ganesha, a deity who is credited with being able to remove obstacles.

Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, Melaka

Further down the street is Cheng Hoon Teng Temple. I paid this temple several visits during our days in Melaka, finding it a place that fostered quiet contemplation and feelings of peace. It is the oldest temple that is still a living place of worship and is devoted to Kwan Yin, goddess of Mercy.

Tamil Methodist Church, Melaka

Another temple in the area is this one in Jonker street, surrounded by shops selling curios, souvenirs and the great bakery mentioned in an earlier post. At first I was a little diffident about going in because the attendant was always sleeping, slumped on a table at the side however on my last trip down the street, he was gone!

Temple in Jonker Street

While in Melaka we stayed very happily at Jonker Boutique Hotel where we were very well looked after, greeted by name by every staff member every time we entered the lobby. This is the only hotel I have ever stayed in where we have received such courtesy and free flowing assistance. We really appreciated the late check out offered as well as assistance in booking our bus seats back to the airport. It's an old hotel that has been comfortably renovated without destroying the character of the period. Should we find ourselves in Melaka again, we'll definitely head for Jonkers Boutique Hotel!

Finally, after our taxi deposited us at the bus terminal we walked almost right around its circular building until we found the platform we needed. Once the bus arrived we loaded our bags underneath and were soon on our way back to KLIA.  This was not the best ride as the driver spent almost all his time making call after call on his mobile phone, talking and laughing loudly. We were relieved when he stopped at a layby and another driver took over.

This post has been in the edit box for some time so we have already booked our flights for another trip to Malaysia for later this year. 

Now the big decision is . . . shall we go to Georgetown and Penang or . . . so many places to see!

Decision pending!

Bus terminal, Melaka