Thursday, April 7, 2011

Kuala Lumpur

We stumbled across Kuala Lumpur again about three years ago at the time the yellow shirts took over Bangkok's International airport for ten days or so and we became stranded in Vientane, Laos. [ We didn't mind this, actually, as we loved our Laotian holiday and were happy to have it extended and at no cost to ourselves.]  We were about to leave the hotel for the flight back to Bangkok when we got one of those "Where are you guys now?" texts from our daughter. We've had so many of those texts now that when we see the first word we know that something momentous has occcurred and we need to access a news service. [Just don't let it happen when we are in Sri Lanka as world news reports appear in real slow motion there.] Until that event we had been in the practice of making Bangkok our base for our Asian holidays but after we experienced modern day Kuala Lumpur on that occasion, Bangkok hasn't seen us at all.

The famous Twin Tower
Kuala Lumpur has been a very easy city to enjoy. To start with, it is very easy to get there on Airasia which has fares that are very much cheaper than any other airline, provided that you can book well in advance and are flexible with your travel dates. The planes from Australia are new and comfortable and the travel time of a little more than eight hours is better than the effort to go anywhere via Bangkok or Hong Kong as we used to do. Airasia flies just about everywhere in Asia at low cost and even to the United Kingdom however there are some things you need to know before booking. For example, it is a no refund airline and you pay for what you want [ meals, sufficient baggage allowances for your personal needs for example] so lots of research is necessary before committing to buying a flight. I've lost count of the number of flights we've had with this airline but all have been very good experiences.

Anyway, Airasia gets us to Kuala Lumpur!

What keeps us coming back is that it is a fabulous city which is growing rapidly without losing too much of its unique characteristics. It has an excellent rail and monorail system so it is easy and cheap to get from place to place quickly and safely. To our surprise we have often had people insist that we take their seat. Now, where else does that happen?

Train Approaching K Sentral station
 Although I have travelled on the trains many times in the past three years, it was only last week that I realised that the train I was on was driving itself! The realisation was such a lightning bolt that I just had to confirm it with a local passenger. She seemed bemused by my question and, as she answered  " think so", I guess that this is correct. This photo was taken standing where the driver's seat would normally be. There was a sign saying "keep clear for manual control" in front of me. I remember going on a driverless train between terminals at the Hong Kong airport when it was newly opened and thinking that it was not as much fun as trying to see what the people on Floor 10 of the building at the end of the wing were having for supper when landing at the old one. Now [probably] all the trains in a city are driverless!

The stations are very well lighted, clean and the staff very efficient. Escalators take you deep down to the underground stations and back up again but if you want to keep fit you could also race up the stairs beside them. There are plenty of signs to ensure that you go to the correct platform and behave properly. Buying a ticket is a simple matter as you have a choice as to queueing at the ticket office or buying at a machine with the prices for destinations from each station clearly indicated on maps above the ticket offices. Just before I left for this trip, a visiting friend showed me a small knitted bag in which she kept her money cards and notes attached to her clothing and I realised that was the perfect idea for ready train fares as it eliminated opening a wallet with a lot of people around. Pockets just don't work for ladies as money kept there spills out easily when looking for a tissue etc.

 One of the train lines has at least one carriage reserved for female passengers and I thought that an excellent provision and should QR be so kind, I would make use of myself at home. There are places where women are hassled a lot when travelling on buses and trains so it was great to see somewhere that takes care of its women.



As I was with LTM I could not investigate this excellent facility.











What makes Kuala Lumpur special for me is not its variety of shopping attractions, its amazing variety of architecture, wonderful transport system, interesting religious buildings, museums, and Oh ! the sumptious food. It is its people. They are so colourful - and I don't limit that adjective to their clothes! Just sit in a food court and you see groups of friends - Malay, Chinese, Indian - all eating, talking and laughing together. Rest your feet while you wait for your energy to recover in a shopping mall and the chances are that a lady - usually one about my own age but not necessarily so -  will quietly start a conversation with you are very much higher than any other Asian country that I have visited. I also love it that I see couples of all ages very comfortable with each other, often holding hands, looking at each other, talking quietly as they walk, wait for a train or mono rail or do their shopping. Eating and shopping together seem to be social occasions enjoyed immensely by families and friends. I can't help but compare this with otherAsian countries where such occasions are mostly quite different.

I had a lovely conversation with this young lady as I selected two scarves at her shop in Ampang Mall. This Mall was the first one in Kuala Lumpur and looks a bit like a mini Bukit Bintang mall. There were several shops selling scarves but it was the dignity and friendliness of the young woman that attraced me to this shop.
After a very pleasant conversation and purchase I went upstairs looking for something specially Malaysian to wear. In a small clothing shop I found two friends chatting and they broke off their conversation to say " Hello" when I looked in the door. [I think that they were somewhat surprised to see me as they later told me that they see very few tourists in this mall.] My eyes were drawn to a lovely outfit hanging on a rack on the wall and my feet followed my eyes. Before long I was standing in front of Halimah and Zarah wearing a tender green and gold Baju Kurang! I just love it and I am pleased that I waited until I found the right one for me. To have such a lovely time talking easily with two women my own age but of a different culture and seeing that we have so much in common is something that I will remember and enjoy for a long time.

Zarah and Halimah
It amazes me that in a country that describes itself as a Muslim country, there appears to be so much freedom for the women of its different races to be able to dress in any way they please. One crowd of people approaching you as you walk in a train station has women attired in dress that is practically not there at all to that which completely covers the whole body, leaving only the eyes to be seen through a netting covered slit.

It is the ethnic mix of the population that ensures the vibrancy of the city. I think that I have been there about six times per year in the last three years and still I have a list of places I'd like to see and things I'd like to experience. The list grows each time I am there and time runs out!

I love to take my time walking through Little India, my eyes feasting on the colours of the apparel on sale, my nose sampling the sweet smells of the curries, spices and my ears hearing the noises of the market place, the shouts, calls and conversations in several languages. There are two Little Indias in Kuala Lumpur and the one I spend most time in is near the Masjid Jamek station. The narrow streets here are lined with sari stores and I have bought a few lovely saris here. At night, although it can be quite a crush, it is a great time to go there to enjoy the atmosphere and watch people shopping and eating. Contrary to what is sometimes reported about me, I am not a big shopper - well, except for shoes.[ A woman can't have too many pairs of comfortable shoes, can she? Every pair I buy has the potential to be comfortable.] The thing I love to do the most is to look at all the different things for sale and the crowds shopping.
Little India, Masjid Jamek
The other Little India is around the K Sentral station - which is not actually central. It is the old Brickfields area and it has recently been given a transforming facelift and looks promising for further expolration to see what else is new. Next time.

Morning stroll in Chinatown
Most of the tourists in Kuala Lumpur probably visit Chinatown which is found around Petaling Street. Although I do enjoy browsing in a big book shop in one of the back streets and have been known to buy just a few books there, It is not I who is the shopper!
Buying another watch!
 Yes! LTM himself is buying yet another watch. I must hasten to add that although he has seven watches now, three of them which have been purchased at Chinatown over several visits, were bought as working- in -the garden watches ie so cheap that is doesn't matter if they get mangled by the mulcher as long as they are not attached to the wrist at the time. There is an old fashioned watchmaker in one of the more 'proper" shops nearby who managed to repair a much treasured and ancient [ bought in Singapore in 1982] genuine Omega watch for a quarter of the home quoted price.

Bukit Bintang Mall
Another place where we have spent many hours on several visits is the shopping malls in Bukit Bintang. There are several in the area and we have visited all of them however it is the BB Mall and the one that is so connected that unless you look at the changed floor tiles you don't know you have left one building and entered another where we have spent many hours. This is where we have justified our frequent visits, if we actually had to do so! I'm talking optical expenses here ! So far, I have bought three pairs of everyday glasses and three pairs of prescription sunglasses at Optiks 2000 on the Lower Ground Floor. Shop 184 I think. LTM has also bought two pairs of glasses and another family member prescription sunglasses. I don't go for designer frames but nice frames, my difficult prescription cost me only AUD225 for one pair of sunnies and one pair of everyday glasses. At home the quotes I got for each pair were over $600. It is wonderful to gradually get enough glasses to have a pair at the computer, by the phone and on my face as well as sunnies always in the car and also in the handbag. What a saving for the Health insurance company too!

As well as the little shops there are two department type stores here. At Parksons in January we had a wonderful time with my daughter stocking up on business shirts. She was delighted to have so many to choose from as she has a definite smart business style that is sometimes difficult to suit. Her seventeen shirts at sale price as well as other great sale items justified the increased baggage allowance we purchased for the return trip! I have bought several handbags here, always at sale price and have made a note to myself not to look in this department next time I'm there!

There is so much more to tell about Kuala Lumpur - places we have visited such as the National Mosque where we saw something of a wedding ceremony, wonderful foodie things, luxury shopping . . .

Next time!





2 comments:

  1. Lorraine - I am suffering serious, serious travel envy. Somehow this year I must find ten days to at least go to Malaysia. I am aiming for a few days in KL than Sabah. It seems you have some challenges in your life, but your travel sounds amazing. I hope this keeps you well balanced. Thank your for bringing your travel to life. Kaby

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  2. Thanks Kaby - KL is an interesting place - lots of variety of everything including people, food, architecture . . . . It's a gateway to a country that I hope to explore more. Sabah is on my list too ! As for challenges - life is full of them and at present I fare very well. Should I encounter some that I read of other people living with, I hope that I can find the balance, patience and energy to work through too.

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