Nallur Kandaswarmy Temple

After our visit to the Jaffna Fort we drove around the city looking for another place to stay for our second night. This turned out to be quite a problem as every guesthouse and hotel we looked at demanded crazy room only prices - Rs5000 and upwards for varying standards from passable to horrible. Finally we came to one such place, Serendip Inn, and I, an obvious foreigner, was kept out of sight while my companions went inside to enquire about availability and to inspect the rooms - we needed two. All their rooms were available, checked for  cleanliness,  deemed reasonable and two selected for Rs2500 each. Bags were carried in, the owner was phoned by the young manager to get permission to give us towels and a second bed sheet. I was then allowed by my family to put in an appearance. Suddenly the price was Rs5000 each room, pay now. This made my family so mad that the bags were soon out, the registration form torn up and we were back on the road. As one with a family interest in a guest house (same rates no matter where you come from!) I cannot understand the logic of being happy with nil - negligible occupancy rates - the outcome for many places that we checked out late afternoons and evenings - when, if the rates were stable and reasonable, a steady income and good reputation could be assured. This nation wide avarice in tourism sectors and the often heard mantra that if you are from overseas then you should pay more for everything  is really at odds with the generosity and friendliness of the rest of the population.

In a way, this experience was all for the best as I realised that Sam's asthma wasn't getting any better and that he was not really well enough for a lot of sightseeing.  I suggested that we visit the Nallur Kovil before heading back to Kandy where we could obtain additional medical assistance if needed and, with notable relief, this was agreed.

Finding the Nallur Kandaswarmy Temple proved to be a bit of a challenge because our Southern Tamil driver was literally given the run around by the local Tamils who surely must have known exactly where this important and famous landmark was. After four massive misdirections - kilometres away in the opposite direction - we finally got the location from a Sinhalese army guy. As an aside, from Omanthi north, the Armed forces were highly visible everywhere to ensure the safety of the people, I was told. I'm unused to seeing lots of soldiers with guns at the ready so this had the opposite effect on me. This time, however, we were indeed assisted very well.

Hindu Temple, Jaffna

Confident of finding the Nallur Kovil at last, we came to this temple in an area near the Kandaswarmy Temple.  I have not been able to identify it so if anyone reading this can do so, please do comment. We had driven past it so I had to walk back while my companions waited for me to take a brief look. Oh, to have more time to explore!

Hindu Temple, Jaffna

Hindu Temple, Jaffna

Isn't it stunning? I ventured in the gate to see if anyone was around but the place was deserted in the midday sun so it was back to the waiting van, my curiosity unsatisfied.

Round the corner we went, following the distinctive red and white walls, and came to the Nallur Kandaswarmy Temple. It was set back quite a distance from the road, standing back behind an ocean of light sand which was visibly radiating heat. Taking in the line of shoes at the outer fence, I complied and danced crazily across the burning sand until I found myself on the cool tiles of the entrance hall. I stood there for some time, allowing my heart and mind to become still and cool, taking in the strong colours and patterns around me.

Nallur Kandaswarmy, Hindu Temple entrance

 There were few people around, which I appreciated for I am not comfortable in crowds, so I was able truly relax before I ventured inside. I found myself in a wide, open space in the Great Hall with the shrine in front of me and courtyard to my left.

Nallur Kovil

At first I was somewhat amused that my two companions who had immediately entered the temple on arrival were both worshiping here together. One was a devout Buddhist and the other an equally devout Catholic! This was far away from my childhood Christian experience where one couldn't even enter another Christian church of a different denomination - not even to attend a family wedding! As I walked slowly around the inner temple courtyard, however,  I, too, was affected by the atmosphere and the idea of that strangeness wafted away in the cool breeze that accompanied me.

Nallur Kovil

My knowledge of Hinduism is almost less than basic but I did know that individual temples have different deities who have their own symbols. The deity of this Temple is Lord Muruga, the God of the Tamils and also known elsewhere as Kartikya, Skanda and Subrahmanya. While walking around the inner courtyard looking at the statues and wall paintings I noticed that there were several representations of peacocks and have now learned that the peacock is the emblem associated with Muruga, as is the vel or spear that symbolises his divinity.

Nallur Kovil

The first Nallur temple was built around 949 AD but was destroyed by invaders and rebuilt again after each invasion and destruction. Of course it was not the sturdy, colourful and statue filled structure it is today. Eventually a more substantial one was built of bricks and stones but this was destroyed by the Portuguese who replaced it with a Christian church. When the Dutch took over from the Portuguese, they were more relaxed and gave permission for a new temple to be constructed. Even so, the one built here in 1749 AD was much smaller, minus the clock tower, courtyard and ornate work. These were added gradually over time until 1964 when the Great Hall was built, statues added and wall paintings renovated, making it the beautiful place it is today.

I could have stayed much longer in this beautiful temple however my companions had long made their exit and I was aware that Sam was waiting under a shade tree, feeling too ill to come across the hot sea of sand and join me inside.

 I left slowly, feeling much calmer and in tune with the world around me than I had felt on my arrival.