Monday, February 4, 2013

Aireys Inlet on the Great Ocean Road,Victoria

On our last evening in Lakes Entrance we enjoyed a leisurely time on Ninety Mile Beach appreciating the muted but lovely sunset and calm conditions. During the night, however, a strong wind arrived and by 4am next morning we decided to give up trying to secure guy ropes and poles and take down our camp. Contending with the force of the wind and also trying not to disturb our neighbours was not easy. When they later emerged from their tents it was to tell us that this was their very first tent experience and that they had been too terrified to come out while it was dark!  By 7 am we were waiting for my sister to appear to say our farewells before leaving, our destination for the day being Aireys Inlet on the other side of Port Phillip Bay.

We decided to take the Princes Highway, a decision later regretted as it was a rather dull road with few interesting places to stop to take a break from the wind that frequently sideswiped the van. During our trip we came to the conclusion that New South Wales road signage is far better than that in Victoria with information there of upcoming turnoffs and exits appearing well before their locations. In vain we looked for the exit we needed and in the end found ourselves heading for Port Phillip instead of Sorrento where we planned to take the ferry cross Port Phillip Bay to Queenscliffe. Yet another cup of service station coffee, accompanied by almost accurate directions,  eventually got us to Sorrento.

The ferry runs on the hour and takes just forty minutes and we enjoyed the break in the cafe, out of the wind. Dolphins often play alongside the ferry however they gave that a miss today. Probably it was too windy for them!


Sorrento
Queenscliffe on the other side of the bay is a popular holiday spot and, as I drove through the town I could see its charm in the well maintained buildings, cafes and restaurants and beach.

Queenscliffe
Anticipation rising, we headed for the famous Great Ocean Road and our first stop along it, Aireys Inlet.

Just past Angelsea we had our first glimpse across the sea of the Lighthouse at Aireys Inlet.
Near Angelsea
Our three days at Aireys Inlet were very pleasant despite the ferocious wind that kept blowing for the first two days. The nights and mornings especially cold requiring three layers of clothing which, living in Queensland we were not comfortable with. Now that Sam's back had mostly recovered, mine decided to let me know it wanted some attention so our exploring was mostly by vehicle.
Split Point Lighthouse, Aireys Inlet.
This lighthouse, standing high on the cliff top, reminded me of a tall white chimney. Now known by locals by its nickname "White Queen" it was, until 1913, named Eagles Nest Point Lighthouse. In 1890, the year building started, ten ships were wrecked along this treacherous part of the coastline. The lighthouse was commissioned the next year and was manned until 1919 when it was automated.
Three clothing layers and not that warm!
Split Point, Aireys Inlet
There is another lighthouse at Cape Otway, ninety kilometres away by road with this part of the south coast being known as "Shipwreck Coast". The currents and rough seas of Bass Strait, together with frequent mists, often proved deadly for ships carrying passengers and  goods. There are at least 638 known wrecks from an unnamed whaling ship in 1836 to the famous American naval ship the City of Rayville which was sunk by a German laid mine in 1940. Although it was very windy when we were there and the sea did not look wild, I would not like to be out there in stronger winds!
Aireys Inlet
Our last day gave us easier weather conditions so we were able to take a walk along the lovely beach. The water was surprisingly warm to paddle in - few people were actually swimming however families were having fun playing volleyball and beachcombing.
near Fairhaven, Victoria
near Aireys Inlet
The sight of this house had cars lining up along the roadside to take photos. I don't think that I'd like to be up there on a windy day!
Mt Defiance Lookout, Great Ocean Road
In 1917 the plan to build the road now famously known as "The Great Ocean Road" was put forward by civilians who were keen to make it easier to travel between the seaside towns along the way and a Trust was formed to build it. 

I was horrified to learn that soldiers returning from World War 1 where they had survived those atrocities themselves, losing many brothers and mates, were put to work with picks and shovels on this massive task. I thought of my own grandfather who, falsifying his age to go to war, suffered physically and mentally for the remainder of his life after it and was I glad that he was better treated in New Zealand. The point has been made that these returned servicemen were provided with work on their return however to put them to work in this way still seems ungrateful and harsh to me.
Great Ocean Road Arch
This is the actually third arch here with the first one which was constructed in 1937 being replaced when the road was widened in 1973. Ten years later that was burned down in the Ash Wednesday bushfires and the present one constructed.
Commemorating the returned soldier workers who built the road
Memorial plaques, Great Ocean Road
As we continued along towards our next destination, The Twelve Apostles, we stopped at several plaques placed along the road giving information about the history of this famous road.

1 comment:

  1. Somehow I have got left behind in your trip but I will enjoy catching up. The Great ocean Rd is a place I would like to return to in our own car> When we were there last it was in a tour bus and not a good one at that.

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