Golden Cave Temples, Dambulla

I have a previous post about these awesome, ancient temples so I will try not to repeat photos or information. Post January 2011.

The five cave temples at Dambulla are on many overseas visitors "must see" list because of the extensive art which covers almost every bit of the walls and ceilings. This was the main reason for our visit this time. No matter what direction you come from, it would be difficult to miss this significant site!

Golden Temples, Dambulla, from the road.

If you look to the centre right of the above photo you will see the dwarfed figures of the first monks in the line with more shown in the photo below. It's an inviting sight from the road! This complex is very new, compared with the ancient Cave Temples on the mountain behind it, having been completed in 2001. It was built to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Chief Monk of the Temple's life as a monk. The Buddha is seated on top of a museum which we missed seeing as we were too early.

Statues of monks, Golden Temple, Dambulla

It has been said that the Chief monk wanted to have the biggest Buddha statue in the world but apparently it is not. At 100 feet or 30 metres high it is, however, the biggest one in Dhamma Chakka posture.

Dhamma Chakka Posture

Dhamma, meaning Buddha's teachings and Chakka, meaning wheel can be translated to mean following the teachings of the Buddha's first sermon to enlightenment. If you study the photo you will see that the Buddha's right forefinger and thumb form a circle - wheel, while the fingers are fanned to represent his first teachings.

After a look around this new statue we began our climb up the steps to the ancient Cave Temples. We had made an early start because we were visiting the area at the hottest, driest and dustiest time of the year - rain was due with the imminent monsoon winds. The heat from the rock can be searing during the middle part of the day and I would not like to climb all the way up minus shoes which is what I saw some overseas visitors doing! There is no need to remove your shoes until you get to the Cave's entrance where you can leave them to be minded while you go inside.

We took the climb slowly enjoying seeing female brown monkeys running about, babies hanging under their bellies, as they scanned for food possibilities. Not so enjoyable was the sight of a troupe of them mauling a small, shrieking puppy, its mother having to leave it to its fate as she carried her three other babies to safety, one by one. I couldn't make myself stay see the outcome of this attack.

At the top we had our tickets checked and I engaged a guide with the idea that he would be able to give us the historical and religious context of the paintings and statues we were to see. Although I had been to these temples before and have read quite a lot about them, I didn't feel confident enough to talk to my companions, who were on their first visit, about them. It turned out that he seemed to have his set speech telling the number of statues in each cave, areas covered by paintings and other basic information. When I tried to engage him further by asking about the kings who were involved during the centuries, I was taken outside, given the briefest answer and told he had finished his tour. Once paid, he ran off, no doubt to find another party for the same speech.

One of the kings was King Valagamabahu of Anuradhapura, 1st century BC, who  lived there for some time while he gathered an army to challenge his South Indian usurper.  As a token of his thanks, he built one of the temples.  In the temple that was closed, there is a huge mural with the king and his warriors. There are photos of it in my previous post about another visit here.

Cave Three - Maha Aluth Viharaya 

The Third Cave, Maha Aluth Viharaya, is the second largest cave at about 90 feet long, 81 feet wide and 30 feet high with a sloping rock ceiling. It  has become a temple relatively recently as it was used as a store room until the 18th century. The ceiling is covered with frescoes depicting the Buddha's life and Buddhist events. There are 50 images of Buddha, including the reclining Buddha looking quite peaceful.

King Keethi Sri Rajasinghe

King Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe's claim to fame here is that he had this cave, the third one, converted to a shrine. 

Dambulla Cave Temple

Our guide moved us around quite quickly and I became confused as to which cave we were actually viewing - we seemed to have missed one. When I asked about this, I was told that one cave was closed. Why? Due to bad things, was the answer. Even more confusing. After this answer he went off, out to another cave. Lesson learned here. I won't get a guide should I visit again!

Dambulla Cave Temple

Dambulla Cave Temple

Dambulla Cave Temple

The pillow looked so soft but in reality it is made of bricks and mortar.

Dambulla Cave Temple

There were only a few people in the caves. Those who came to worship quietly moved from one significant Buddha to another, some leaving a few flowers as an offering.

Worshiping at the Cave Temples

Women worshiping at the Cave temples

It was peaceful, quiet and cool - the place for quiet contemplation.

Cave Temples

Dambulla Cave Temple

The rock ceiling is, of course, uneven with ridges, dips and curves and this makes the paintings on them all the more remarkable. These murals illustrate the life of Buddha, his sermons and some aspects of the history of the country. Overall, they cover 2,100 square metres.

Ceiling Mural, Dambulla Cave Temple

Mural, Dambulla Cave Temple

Mural, Cave Temple, Dambulla

Mural, Cave Temple, Dambulla

On this, my second visit, I noticed things not seen previously and had the added pleasure of revisiting statues that had stayed with me since my last visit. For me, it's the kind of place that I could return to several times. When I could finally pull myself away, I found my friends sitting outside watching a large group of pilgrims make their offerings to a shrine under the Bo tree and enjoying the view.

View from the Temple grounds at Dambulla

Dambulla

As we left, the Buddha sat, high on the rock, watching the world below.

If you look closely you can see Sigiriya Rock just left of centre.